Monday, 13 July 2015

Bite 15 Cowes, Isle of Wight. Words and pictures by Penny Hopkins




The Cowes Classics come to town ahead of Cowes Week. Photo Credit Paul Wyeth
As Portsmouth Harbour calms down with the departure of the dynamic AC teams to Gothenburg our rumbling tummies cry out for sustenance and carbs to survive the week that is Cowes.

We follow the glorious Js into Cowes as they enter the Solent to dip their formidable masts to the Royal Yacht Squadron in its Bicentenary Year. I come via the jolly Red Jet, passing Elenaora as we dock and revel in the news that five Js will be seen racing here this summer. See www.aamcowesweek.co.uk
Now many of you will have your favourite haunts in Cowes, built up over years of fun, and I'm not going to begin to rate the many yacht clubs in Cowes but just list Best Bites top mouthfuls
Todays top favourites are: the Coast Bar and the Mess Canteen

A lighter breakfast at Coast if you need to leave space for lunch


I start at Coast Bar, passing a busy Tiffins on the way as I want to see how many people are eating breakfast at 10.30 in the morning - the lucky skivers! I'm not disappointed; two families, a couple of single gents checking the papers and an attractive table of French yachtsmen fill the charming open room, with long bar, fresh flowers and open brickwork that holds a huge black board with the breakfast specials marked up - an impressive list. Breakfast is an important meal, we know this, but in Cowes it could well be the yard stick you are measured by, that grinding and spinny flying being hungry work!
The Coast Full English at £6.95 is top dog here, good local bacon and sausage, real mushrooms plus black pudding. Eggs Benedict at £6.50 and eggs anyhow on toast at £4.95, toast and jam £2.50. Jam by Tiptree, coffee by Hampshire based Mozzo
Delightful ambience, helpful, friendly team, I'll be back later to check out the wood fired pizza oven that has just been lit and to see the lunch specials - these guys get through a lot of chalk!
 

Above Coast Bar is one of Cowes favourite Italians, Tonino's, traditional and reliable, and in the revered Peter Cumberlidge's top 10, say no more. But, we can't go there now. Passing Tiffins again, more people on the terrace enjoying their Lavazza and bacon baguettes, I note they do crew hampers.

Well Bread Company - will definitely try the croissants next time
On a mission I pass the Well Bread Company. Attractive, large loaves stacked in the window, big sharing table inside but most people were outside in the sun. This should be Hop's heaven as I love a good bakery and to enjoy a decent coffee (they import Noble Bean) whilst sampling their Vienoisserie should be my Nirvana - but it seems hot and bothered in here, staff are harried, and I don't linger as I haven't reached my second favourite yet.

 
Mess Canteen is a welcoming tunnel of a cafe, cosy seating in the snug at the back and convivial team smiling at the counter. Blackboards abound here too, and as the specials run out they get wiped out, no microwaves used here, stuff cooked fresh and when it’s gone, it’s gone. Local producers are listed, tea & coffee is from Clifton. The girls in the AAM Cowes Week Office love this place, and I see Matt & Cat's bright green sticker on the window, further reassurance.
Best Bites here include the tempura soft shell crab burger (when they can catch the little nippers), the fish cakes and for a quick lunch the Croque Madame. Iced coffee and I’m happy here.
 
The Messy blackboard
 But must visit Moocow, just off the main drag and with its own Greek Island style bright white sparkle, a sunny terrace, and all shiny orange, super clean calm inside. I want to try the vegetable tempura here as I’ve heard it’s fab, but in a snap of terrible judgement I go for the aubergine & halumi stack. It looks fantastic, but sadly tastes of very little and the generous slices of cheese are too thick to crisp at the edges, so make for some energetic chewing – a shame, but my fault probably, just too healthy for me and I look longingly at the calamari and baked fish in paper. I’m going to come back with a small gang of grazers and work through the menu as it all reads and looks a dream.
Note: Ladies Night 13 Aug, DJ and cocktails on the terrace, but closed 14 & 15 – great for private functions


Moocow's aubergine & halumi stack

On my re-visit to the Coast Bar, the place is full, both rooms are buzzing, the terrace full. Again, a good mix - business lunches, three generation families, couples and dogs. Happy eaters and drinkers, the pizza oven is delivering beautifully charred bottoms in minutes.


    


BB choice pizza with garlic & thyme slow roast mushrooms, prosciutto cotto and mascarpone, followed by lemon posset. Other favourites are the pan fried sea bass and the meatballs were flying out of the kitchen too. Good wine list, the Chablis on the black board was perfect.

Breaking news: Harbour Kitchen has just opened next to the Food Hamper, the second string to the Coast Bar, but here they will serve less formal, faster street food, with 2 bars across 2 floors. Open in time for Cowes Week and run by Harry Joubert, open 12am -11pm, longer at weekends. Try it and let me know.
Get away from it all at the convivial Lifeboat at East Cowes Marina
For a bit of peace & quiet: head over to East Cowes to get away from the crowds and enjoy the sunny terrace at the Lifeboat whilst watching the circus on the other side
   
Happy sailing at Cowes Week 2015 - photo by Mike Townshend

Contacts:
The Coast Bar      01983 298574     15 Shooters Hill – best to book, especially weekends/ Sun lunch
Mess Canteen     01983 280083     63 High Street – will do private functions for 40+ don’t take bookings
Moocow                 01983 200750     55 Cross St - great decor, art and mezze
Tiffins                     01983 292310     takeaways, crew packs, good breakfasts
Cowes Tandoori  01983 296710     Every Tuesday 3 course meal for £10.95 + no corkage fee
Tonino’s                01983 298464     8-9 Shooters Hill - Cheerful Italian

Best Bites traveled courtesy of Red Jet, the fastest way to West Cowes. See timetables: www.redfunnel.co.uk 
Thanks also go to Marina at Clearline Comms and Amy at Carswell Gould
               

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