Hops' Hikes & Bites: Dartmouth Bite 23 All at Sea

Dartmouth

Dartmouth, producing Naval Officers since 1863, inventing the first steam pumping engine in 1712 and waving a tearful farewell to the Mayflower and Speedwell in 1612, as they left Bayard’s Cove to head to the New World.

Now this most desirable town on the steeply wooded slopes of the River Dart is a sheltered haven for sea farers and not a bad place to go shopping – with over 12 galleries and chef Mitch Tonks – or live, with its hospital on the waterfont and more planning applications than I could count, yes, it’s buzzing with activity and brave new builds sit cheekily alongside fisherman’s cottages and merchants villas.

Right, the sun is shining; let’s hit the streets…..

Breakfast: has to be Alf Resco, on Lower Street, but be prepared to wait (though not for long) as this place seems popular with all: from young officers to gentlemen, families, hikers and visiting yachtsmen. There's a great menu with fine attention to detail and covers healthy smoothies to the total fry up. I like a whole page committed to different types of hot chocolate and the choice of toppings on the porridge, including Chia seeds and nut butter, Delightful Ella would be proud. These guys also have rooms available upstairs – the top floor appartment having wonderful views over the Dart from its crows nest balcony. Open from 7 am, but shuts at 2pm so remember to get there on time, but perhaps avoid the first door rush www.cafealfresco.co.uk

Best coffee: Wood Roast, second string to Italian owned outfit in Totnes, who also run the Curator Kitchen, mental note to check it out when next visiting. They are passionate about their beans, which are roast over in Italy, along with the biscotti which the owner's brother makes in Ancona. Family affair. I had the day's special, ‘Congo’ and loved it. Convivial small space, if full get a take out and buy some beans for the boat. Tel 01803 832155

Conveniently positioned opposite Wood Roast is Smith Street Deli, another great spot to grab a quick bruschetta, buy some wonderful olive oil and tapas, read the papers and catch up with email - wifi is good here. www.smithstreetdeli.co.uk

Best baker - my sources all said you have to go to Saveurs, the French Patisserie on Victoria Road. It really is what it says on the tin, a proper patisserie with an impressive array of breads, pastries and chocolate work - you could be in France – or watching Bake Off’s La crème de la crème. I bought a big boule of sour dough and took a pain au raison to go with my Wood Roast take-out; joy, to sit in the sun by the hyacinths and early opening magnolias, overlooking the misty Dart. But I would also give the Almond Thief bakers available in Dart Deli a punt as their bread looked a proper job to me and they are a small outfit baking out of Dartington.

Incredible choice of patisserie at Saveurs

Lunch - Rockfish takeout, South Street Deli or, if you’re lucky, a mug of Mark Lobb’s creamy seafood chowder in the Old Market Square, where he has a wet fish stall 9am-14.30 Tues, Thurs, Frid & Sat – more info at www.wildfooddevon.co.uk

Afternoon tea – Dart Marina Hotel is a fabulous spot opposite the Higher Car Ferry, and has cleverly combined a modern, luxurious hotel, with the marina, spa facilities and some lovely colour washed flats available (there was a 2 bed on for £775k) to buy, all enjoying that ever changing view over the river. The restaurant shares the lovely views that the rooms enjoy, and I like the attention to detail with blankets and binoculars set up on your balcony. But I have heard about their three cream tea options – fizz, Hendricks or tea. What, I hear you cry, tea??? When you could have Hendricks? But why not be sensible and have both? As the delightful mix of sandwiches, scones, cakes, desserts and hand made chocolates are not to be rushed. The Hendricks tea pot arrives, beautifully painted and chinking with ice cubes. I pour my first cup with cucumber slices and a scattering pepper corns at the base and lean back and enjoy the ice cold, fresh green scent of it – what a delight. Overlooking one of South Hams prettiest rivers in the distance and a tea tray of artistic reflectivness in the fore ground. I like this place www.dartmarinahotel.co.uk

Dinner: Big night out? Go to the Seahorse, home to chef Mitch Tonks who knows a thing or two about fish and about using local produce and supporting fisherman, including the poor guys whose trawler the Saint Christophe, was being recovered outside the restaurant.

Or try Kendricks, 01803 832328 on Fairfax Place, with a good buzz and busy tables when I visited, and some great sounding imaginative fish including monkfish & king prawn Malabar Curry with hand made cumin naan bread, oh yes please: only open in the evenings, whereas the Seahorse does a good lunch slot and I like the locals set menu for £20. www.seahorserestaurant.co.uk

Cocktails? Bellinis, open on Friday and Saturday 5pm -1.30am – favourite haunt of Ribeye

Best pub in town? Try Windjammer on Victoria Road, run by Andy Coombe, with their own commercial fishing boat, so the Teign mussels are always worth trying and the beer is well kept

Best pub up river? Maltsters Arms, tucked into the inlet at aptly named Tuckenhay with small pontoon outside. Once owned by the immaculate Keith Floyd, always worth a visit, but ring ahead if arriving by boat to see if there’s room to tie up outside – 01803 732350

The hike: easy walk along the river to Dartmouth Castle, through some delightful coloured merchants houses, past Baynards Cove, original departure point for the Mayflower, to join the South West Coastal Path out to the Castle itself, where you will find Dartmouth Castle Tea Rooms. You can be fortified here with fresh baked cakes, darned good sausage rolls and a cuppa, see www.dartmouthcastletearooms.co.uk before heading back, or if fatigued (I know who you are) take the ferry option; the ferries make this whole area a walker and cyclist’s dream as you can cover some beautiful distances, without covering the same area.

This walk can be extended to a 6km circular treck, well marked as the Diamond Jubilee Way