Hops' Hikes & Bites: Brighton

Brighton

Brighton Marina

Call me a spoilt Solent softie but I’m really not sure about the value in travelling as far east as Brighton, unless you’re en route to Holland say? I know it’s a buzzing town, with over 800 food options (Trip Advisor) but the marina’s a bit grim and the water very grey – at least it was when I visited so I probably need to come back when the sun is shining, and with a happier crew!

The surrounding countryside is far from grim though and I would recommend hiring a bike or taking the bus out to some of the surrounding villages, nestling in those glorious green Downs. June and July are the best months for being out and about in British bosky pastures – beer gardens are accepted here.

However, back to this rocking Regency City where restaurants make their first ‘outside London opening’, see favourite Baker & Spice and more obvious Wahaca and Franco Manca – but there are some indie gems in those back streets, so here are just a few recommendations.

Perfect scrambled egg at Moksha with superb Compass Coffee

Breakfast: Moksha, on London Road. An independent that’s been here for over 8 years and is run by Ollie, whose girlfriend is vegetarian so there are some modern twists on the menu which caters for all. We had the stack of blueberry pancakes, perfect scrambled eggs on toast, but the star for both quality and price was the bacon sandwich on sour dough £3.50 with a fried egg on top for £1. The sourdough lifts all the breakfasts, griddled crisp, adding flavour and sourced just round the corner. All ingredients are as local as possible, using Sussex growers for the meat and veg.

The stack of pancakes with blueberries within

Best coffee - Compass Coffee is roast at Littlehampton, and they have created a smooth Espresso blend called Brighton Lanes that is very easy on the pallet. Order on-line or try it first at Moksha, Plateau and Blackbird. www.coffeecompass.co.uk

Real Patisserie in Trafalgar Road - very good sour dough

Best baker; Real Patisserie, just round the corner at 43 Trafalgar Road, which is full to bust with more cafes and food options. We liked the look of Coffeetzar with it’s fried egg buns, but Real Patisserie’s glass counter had gleaming apricot, apple and lemon meringue tarts, as well as the afore mentioned sour dough, so we came away with bags bulging for later. I’m also a big fan of afore mentioned Baker & Spice, and have visited their Victoria shop many times. They don’t bake here in Brighton yet, but fresh breads etc come down each morning from London. Find them at 40 East Street. And I would have liked to try Café Plenty, newly opened, cool interior and a micro bakery on-site, it looked good, wish I had time to try it out – visit them on Circus Parade

Egg buns in Coffeetzar, also in Trafalger Road

Lunch: Silo, on quieter Upper Gardner Street, who’s by-line is ‘removing unnecessary processing of food’ so there is a flour mill in reception, to grind flours used in their breads and t’other side of the entrance to the restaurant is a shiny, hungry, moist and a tad smelly silver box that composts up the unavoidable waste of a restaurant. You are welcome to take some of this home to the garden. We didn’t have time, or room within, to eat here but would love to hear from those of you that have.

Or newly opened Franco Manca – if you fancy a decent wood fired pizza at a competitive price, sour dough base (bit of a theme here…be kind to your guts) we liked No 4 - Gloucester Old Spot ham, mozzarella, Buffalo Ricotta and wild mushrooms £6.70

Wine sans pesticides, herbicides and fertilisers also rocks my boat….try it out.

The flour grinder ready to roll in Silo

Cocktails: Cocktail Shack, Artist Residence, 34 Regency Square. These guys are fantastic and first came to my attention in Penzance of all places. Groovy place to stay if you get chucked off the boat. Rum, yes, and more rum… http://www.cocktailshackbrighton.co.uk/

Dinner : The Salt Room or 64 Degrees

The Salt Room, opposite West Pier, has a Josper Grill (exciting) and try to hit the Pre-Theatre or set lunch if you want to feel you’ve grabbed a bargain. Excellent seafood and grilled meats. Pre-theatre £15 for two courses.

http://www.saltroom-restaurant.co.uk/

64 Degrees, in the Lanes, has been awarded Michelin’s Bib Gourmand two years running and came 24^th in the National Restaurant’s Top 100 last year, for those that like these facts. Has been recommended by many, so definitely worth a punt

http://www.64degrees.co.uk/

Trolls Pantry can be found inside the Hobgoblin - burgers recommended

Best burger? The search continues, but top recommendations are Burger Brothers (very small seating area) Coggins & Co and Trolls Pantry in the colourful Hobgoblin Pub. Coggins & Co in Seven Dials would be my first call as owner Andrew choses top quality local beef from Redlands Farm in Horam, buns from our Real Patisserie and ice cream from Downs View, and the surroundings are a cut above the normal. All burgers are cooked medium and chips come triple fried in either beef dripping or organic vegetable oil. Drinking water is filtered on-site and served in lovely glass bottles – a nice touch.

BB burger – mushroom tapenade, Harvey’s rarebit and English mustard mayo £11.50

http://www.coggingsandco.com

www.deliveroo.co.uk available here, so choose, phone and wait peacefully on the boat

Best pub for Sunday lunch. Two choices here, both about 9 miles away, heading deep into the beautiful Sussex Downs.

First the Shepherd & Dog, in Fulking, at the foot of Devil’s Dyke. Cosy, attractive traditional pub with a lot going on and great food – dates to note

15^th July – Gin & Jazz

26 Aug – Beer Fest

You join National Cycle Route 2 and there’s a bit of a hill near the Dyke Golf Club – 11.5 miles bike ride. 9.5 miles the more direct walk.

http://shepherdanddogpub.co.uk

Lovely garden at the Shepherd & Dog,Gin and Jazz on the 15th July

Or the Half Moon at Plumpton, again about 9 miles away, but you can avoid Brighton itself on this route. Another delightful Sussex pub serving good food.

http://www.halfmoonplumpton.com

Busby & Wilds - an easy walk from the marina, great Sunday roasts

If you want a shorter walk try Busby & Wilds, at 9 Rock Street, Kempton. A very civilised pub in a quiet Regency back street a pleasant 20 minute walk along the waterfront from the marina. Great squid and Scotch Egg bar snacks and roasts.

http://www.busbyandwilds.co.uk