Bite 16 Plymouth – Millbay area
Plymouth sits on the border between Devon and Cornwall and has played a key role in Britain’s Naval history; Devonport is the largest operational naval base in Western Europe. It is home to the Royal Navy’s amphibious ships HMS Ocean, Albion and Bulwark, 11 frigates and seven nuclear subs, and HQ to Brittany Ferries, the Royal Marines and Princess Yachts.
The area around Millbay is undergoing long term development with
additional berthing options now at the Royal
William Yard, out towards Devil's Point and the newer King Point Marina,
second marina of Sutton Harbour, within the inner basin of Millbay
itself.
From a foodie point of view things are definitely looking up with
Hugh Fernley-Whittingstal choosing the perfectly converted Royal Navy victualling
yard at Stonehouse (Royal William Yard) for one of his rare Canteens and we always keep a watch on
the Stable's latest openings, which have been at Plymouth
and Winchester
this summer.
A mixed City, as all the interesting ones are, with a decent Uni (7th
largest in UK) that still offers a surf locker to interested students and home
to Plymouth Gin, one of my favourites.
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| Full English at Jolly Jacks |
We get in early so tie up at Mayflower
Marina, tucked in on your left as you enter the Tamar and looking over
towards Cremyll Village in Cornwall and the afore mentioned Royal William Yard. We know we'll get a
good breakfast at Jolly Jacks and
I'm intrigued to find out more about this friendly marina which has won TYHA's
UK Coastal Marina Award two years in a row now; ah ha, it's actually owned by
its 400 or so berth holders, which seems to work very well, happy owners,
unrestricted yard and a convivial bunch of professionals in the office.
Fortified by the full English and double poached eggs, with proper
crisp bacon, we look at the hike and bike options from here and they're good!
Bike: Our old friend National Cycle
Route 2 is sign posted outside the Mayflower's entrance, and a choice of
ferries take you over to Cornwall,
via the Cremyll Ferry, or from RWY to the Barbican where you can either walk back
along the Hoe, looking out for Spanish Armadas to your left..
Hike… or take the short
ferry hop from the Barbican to Mount Batten Peninsular where you have some
splendid coastal walks and we can recommend the Clovelly Bay Inn as a good cosy
stop off for sustenance. Yacht Havens' Marina
is over here and offers a sheltered berth from south westerlies.
We scoot over the narrow passage dividing the Mayflower from the
Royal William, noting Princess Yachts' impressive set up with a steady flow of
boats chugging in and out. The other interesting hanger is just downstream from
the Mayflower, and looms blackly on the otherwise bright green river bank. This
fascinating listed building is home to
Will Sterling, one of the UK's finest traditional boat builders - note to
self to visit next time I'm down, the build quality is meant to be exceptional.
The conversion from victualling yard to atmospheric waterfront
living has been done very well. Designed by architect Sir John Rennie in 1825,
this is the largest collection of Grade 1 listed military buildings in Europe, and are now a mix of spacious apartments, restaurants,
shops and galleries. Many of the flats have superb views out over the water and
the developers have left as much integrity in the old buildings as to make them
darned interesting, and hold their price! But we don't want to talk property
when we can be talking dough! Yep, the RW bakery genuinely uses the old space
that would have turned out the ship’s
biscuits for the Navy back in the day, but now the impressive Our Bakery group are here, doing what
they do so well over in Lyme Regis and Poundbury, making great bread in an
atmospheric setting and sharing it out. Big wooden tables, piles of croissants
and pain au chocolate straight from the ovens, bakers throwing dough about – near heaven for me, as the coffee’s supplied by Clifton too –
they are on it! Everything is good in here, try the lot.
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| Patisserie heaven is found at the Royal William Bakery |
The sun is fully out now as we push open the huge heavy door of the
bakery and waddle past the RW Water Ferry that runs daily to the Barbican (£3 single) and head to the very end of the quay where the Canteen has tables and chairs spilling
out on the cobbles, enjoying a most fabulous view, which we enjoy with a cool
local beer in hand and a platter of meat and cheese on the table. Hugh FW knows
his punter and provides an excellent grazing table throughout the day and an
exciting deli bar that is great for topping up your picnic basket if you’ve only half filled it from the bakery…
The Dock at King Point also comes highly recommended and is another top spot
for breakfast, with the modern glazed building having a cracking view over the
marina.
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| Fish cakes at the Dock, King Point Marina at Millbay |
And if you want to wander a little further I’d give Rock Salt Café a try, just up
the road at 31 Stonehouse Street,
good attention to detail, and fresh local produce.
Coming up soon - Dartmouth,
Salcombe and Tresco, so send in any favourites you wish me to visit
Contacts:
Mayflower Marina 01752 556633
King Point Marina 01752 424297
Jolly Jacks, Mayflower 01752
500008
The Canteen, RWY 01752
252702
RW Bakery 01752
265448
The Dock, King Point 01752
253555
Rock Salt Café, 31 Stonehouse St 01752 225522
Bike & SUP hire Rockets
& Rascals
Bike – Plym Valley Trail 13.5
miles using old rail line inland towards Dartmoor
