Emsworth, Chichester Harbour

 Emsworth

 

 Tucked up in the sheltered left armpit of Chichester Harbour, it's hard to believe that sleepy Emsworth was once home to James Duncan Foster, who built the 110’ ‘Echo’  the largest sailing fishing vessel ever built in England, and you can see her model in Emsworth Museum

 

 

You can bring your boat alongside the quay outside the wonderful red brick mill (tide and keel permitting) that is home to Emsworth Slipper Sailing Club. Or there is a visitor's pontoon, with access to the quay along the coastal path. Emsworth has two sailing clubs and one marina.

With winter approaching the quay was a bustle with boats dismasting ready to come into the yard.  Warm sunshine, sparkling water, an idyllic scene though perhaps quieter now than in the past – with prized boatbuilders, oyster catchers and ancient Mariners

The Slipper Sailing Club has a great bar upstairs and far reaching views out to sea, over the intriguingly named Slipper Pond, where I can see model yachts racing. The club doesn't do food so I move on.There's a friendly bunch enjoying breakfast outside Flinstones, next door to the renowned restaurant 36 the Quay. Then Fat Olives is a coupla doors up on the right, which has an equally good reputation for fine dining (No 1 on Tripadvisor). A notice board outside the flower decked Blue Bell Inn, offers a 'husband's crèche' for busy shoppers, and then I see Woosters, all retro styling, offering good wine and live music on top of decent food, but not open yet.

I head to Emsworth Deli for my first coffee, beans roast in Arundel by Edgecombes, and chat to Ben Laycock about his produce and customers . He gets his bread from fourth generation Westbourne Bakers, but I'm told that Heidi's Patisserie on the High Street also have fresh bread and pastries  delivered from their bakery in Havant daily. It seems that Fat Olives is becoming the favourite for the special night out from the food point of view, but the locals are enjoying Woosters’ wines and the live music. The hands down winner for best pub is the Blue Bell.

Emsworth is a pretty town with everything you need to hand; a good butcher, veggie shop, baker, hardware and wine shop, and a terrific choice of places to eat, it punches high.It's still too early for lunch so I head over to check out the wine shop VIN, and notice that the cafe a friend recommended called Driftwood, was full to bursting.

VIN is a neat shop, filled with bottles and offering some interesting wine courses, teaming up with Fat Olives for lunch. The shop is new and cheerfully run by Jonathan Rogers, who has a mature 25 years experience in the wine trade. If I walk past Dolphin Quay (big hoohah about redevelopment here) and follow the path along the waterfont I get to Emsworth Yacht Haven with around 250 berth holders and the bustling Deck Cafe upstairs run by 21 yr old Ed Collison. The specials are going down a storm as is the burger and home made cakes. With plans for an open kitchen and winter evenings I’m sure the berth holders are delighted with this new opening.

The Deck's popular house burger

Best pub - the Blue Bell. Just up from the quay and with a fine line in blackboard humour. The pub is pretty full by 12 and there's a nice mix of people reading the papers over a coffee, ordering their first pint and reading what's on the specials. I notice they were listed in the Sunday Times best fish & chips honours and that they have an interesting looking beer on the pumps - called Mainsail. On asking I was told that it was a relatively new beer made just up the road by Emsworth Brewhouse. They are proud of Grant and his award winning Craft Ale Nano-Brewery, sustainably brewing Mainsail, Flotilla and Woodhouse bottled beers, with a run of 500 bottles each brew, and then delivering locally via zero emission electric vehicles. Grant is currently working on a hefty 5.4% US IPA style beer called Skipa for Christmas, so watch out.

Chef Tom Babb is a gifted cook and today's specials include haddock Mornay and a chicken and leek pie, made properly in a tin with pastry top and bottom. The infamous fish & chips are up on the board, as is treacle tart - heaven. I’m in!

The Bluebell's haddock Mornay - superb

Best café – Driftwood. Now back to Emsworth for lunch and what a tough choice. If you're on your own then Driftwood is a great spot, with Union Coffee (you can buy the beans here) lovely crisp bottomed quiches and a dangerous display of cakes; the quiche of the day was red pepper, bacon and brie, with proper short pastry, followed by lemon meringue pie.

Driftwood's lemon meringue pie

Big night out? A happy foursome head into Fat Olives, just over the road, and explain that they love coming here for lunch once a month, and live in Petersfield, so have many good choices locally, fair praise indeed. 

The hike: The Solent Way ends at Emsworth, so head back over to Langstone for a decent 6+ mile circular walk along the coast, enjoying the twitching of seabirds one way and the graveyard at Warblington the other. Mill ponds, ducks and pubs, you could be in Suffolk! Choice of pubs for lunch, though The Ship seemed more popular, a Fullers pub.

www.bluebellinnemsworth.co.uk

www.driftwood-cafe.co.uk

www.fatolives.co.uk

www.thedeckcafe.co.uk

www.emsworthdeli.co.uk

www.theemsworthbrewhouse.epageuk.com

www.shiplangstone.co.uk

www.emsworth-marina.co.uk

www.conservancy.co.uk – for all mooring/ visiting queries

Best tweeters - @EmsworthLife

Penarth, Cardiff Bay

Just across the border, Penarth Quays sits behind the impressive barrage, built 17 years ago to create Cardiff Bay - an area of open water ideal for events, recreation and wildlife. Cardiff Bay is now recognised as being one of the UKs most successful regeneration programmes, creating a 500 acre freshwater lake, fed by the Rivers Taff and Ely, in the former dockland area. The barrage enables vessels 24 hour access now, through 3 locks, opening this whole area up and bringing new life and prosperity to Tiger Bay.

The deck of the Custom House, looks over to Penarth Quays and across the barrage to Cardiff.

For those of us who like to stretch our legs after a long passage at sea the 13 km walkway around the Bay is recommended with the Pont y Werin bascule bridge enabling cyclists and walkers to cross the Ely and complete the circuit that takes in Penarth, with its famous pier; a very popular resort in Victorian times with wide views over the Bristol Channel and beyond.

The 340 berth marina is run by Quay Marinas, with manager Stuart Jones keeping a cheerful hand on the tiller here; a sheltered haven for yachtsmen and ideal place to live, with your boat at the bottom of the garden, and the joys of Cardiff just over the bay. There are boat parking meters at Mermaid Bay, how civilised, if you want to pop over for shopping and a spot of lunch.

Site facilities are good for a hungry girl just driven over the Severn Bridge so I trot off happily to choose my lunch spot.

Diverting temporarily for a peep at the hypnotic barrage, I check out Custom House, an impressive building looking over the barrage and out to sea, but decide this isn't for me this time, a bit too posh and I'm really not sure about chilled cabinets full of food choices before cooked, and I'm a farmer's daughter! So I walk along the quayside, admiring the colourful gardens and bods tweaking their rigs ahead of the weekend.

Pier 64 is an iconic wood clad building hanging over the marina, the superb deck area glazed to keep off the wind and strengthened to take a crowd of 300+, proper engineering here and very stylish. This is more like it. A cosmopolitan feel inside, bit sparkly, cocktails being shaken, but friendly and offering all berth holders and visiting yachts 10% discount.

I go for a quick lunch of chicken satay, and it's spot on; the succulent chicken gently spiced on a bed of roast peppers, carrots and sliced beans, the scatter of peanut nibs on top adding the crunch. Washed down with lime and soda I'm ready to continue my whistle stop tour of Penarth and hike up the steep hill into town. Penarth is probably best known for its Pier, the planting is lovely here and the views wide and open to Barry Island, the Bristol Channel, left to Cardiff and across the Bristol Channel to Weston Super-Mare and beyond.

Penarth is probably best known for its Pier, the planting is lovely here and the views wide and open to Barry Island, the Bristol Channel, left to Cardiff and across the Bristol Channel to Weston Super-Mare and beyond.

Along the esplanade is the recently opened James Sommerin, top rated restaurant with rooms above; renowned for his fascinating tasting menus, this is a special place for dinner as prices start for £60 for six courses, adding matching wine for another £40. I’m told the food is very good. It was very quiet when I visited and, dare I say, a little sterile? When I asked the marina if they had tried it out Stuart said he went there for a special birthday party and the food was exceptional, with service to match, so worth putting on the hot list next time.

So heading back into town I spot Bar 44, owned by two brothers, with just three bars in their Spanish chain: one in Cardiff, another in Cowbridge, and this one in Penarth, which is a favourite of the marina team and I like the look of the long polished bar, list of tapas, Spanish gin and tonic specials and flight of sherries. It has a lovely atmosphere and the Iberica ham looks the business at the back of the bar. The little garden is bathed in afternoon sunshine. I will return later, but there is time to check out the best butcher, baker and fruit and veg stall in town, before heading back to the marina for afternoon tea in Compass Café, run by Marcus and Craig and open every day for some classic breakfasts, served until 4pm. 

They are very popular with berth holders, cyclists and walkers, as well as all the workers at Penarth Quays. They use local where they can, bread from Brutons, Welsh tea from the Tea Birds and speciality cup cakes from the Cup and Cake Bakery just over the Bay. They are just working on a new afternoon tea menu and I’ll be back to try it. Cheerful, bright café that knows its customer well. 

There is so much to do here in Penarth, and with Cardiff and it’s Dr Who Experience and International Sports Centre over the way, I’m planning a longer visit next time.

The hike (and bike - Nat Cycle Network Route 8): There is a great choice of traffic free trails around Cardiff Bay, taking in as much history, shopping, wildlife and nourishment as you wish. Starting at 6 miles but you can extend easily to 9 ….and beyond, see:

http://www.sustrans.org.uk/ncn/map/route/cardiff-bay-trail

www.mapmyride.com/gb/penarth-wls/

Guest little red book - ex pro Cardiff Blues prop Gary Powell:

Pub - The Pilot - best pint of Peroni and ham egg & chips

Coffee#1 – owned by Cardiff based brewers Brains, so almost local here

Butcher – David Lush – minted lamb chops and chipolatas

Baker – Brutons, 106 Glebe Street

Fruit & Veg – Windsor Fruit Store, in pretty Arcade off Windsor Street

Afternoon tea – Hamptons, Ludlow Lane – served from 3pm for £11.99 pp, call to book so they can get cooking 029 2070 5391

www.quaymarinas.com

www.pier64.co.uk

www.Coffee-compass.co.uk

www.bar44.co.uk

www.theoldcustomhousepenarth.co.uk

www.jamessommerinrestaurant.co.uk

www.zegomarine.co.uk/ ; Baia Vita – private water taxi to run you over to Cardiff 

www.brutonsthebakers.co.uk

Southampton: where to eat during the Boat Show?

Southampton Boat Show

The big night out, or a sneaky lunch break

 Lakaz Mamam

Mauritian street food, brought to us lucky Southamptoners by ex Masterchef winner Shelina Permalloo. Wonderful, friendly staff, a congenial atmosphere and a menu you need to slowly work through, top to bottom. Great vegan choices too, the butterbean curry being a winner.

My favourites?

The prawn dippers and samosas

The prawn dippers, crunchy outer casing, succulent plump prawn within.

All the rotis, but particularly the King Prawn Rougaille

The ‘Magic Bowl’ chicken and prawn sort of chop suey, Malay style, with lovely fried egg atop – perfect lunch stop. Veggie options always available.

The Coco Bun, cool coconut ice cream in a light brioche style milk bun, but it’s the pool of salted caramel, pistachio nibs that add the fairy dust.

Fresh pineapple, but with the Lakaz Maman makeover

Mango, lime and chocolate slice …….just go with a big group and try them all.

Mango, lime and chocolate slice

and finally - the coco bun - magnificent!

Opening times:

Mon – Saturday 12 – 10pm

Sundays – 12 – 6pm

 Lakaz Mamam

22 Bedford Place, SO15 2DB

Tel 023 8063 9217

 

www.lakazmaman.com

Coast at Coppet Beach, Saundersfoot, Pembrokeshire

Coast on shore at Coppet Hall Beach, Saundersfoot, Pembrokeshire

Breaking news: Coast has just won AA Restaurant of the Year

I had read about Coast when looking for the UK's best beach cafes and the building itself lifts your spirits as you spot the silvering wood curving back from the beach. Will Holland is the chef here, a well travelled Bristol boy who gained his first Michelin star at La Bécasse in Ludlow before heading to the purpose built dynamic building on the beach here at Coppet Hall. Within 10 days of opening Coast had been awarded 2 AA rosettes, and have just won Restaurant of the Year, 2016.

The first surprise appetiser, plump, eyeball fresh whitebait with paprika mayo

There is ample parking (you need to pay) and a cafe and loos downstairs, but with Coast getting the Lion's share of the building as all tables have panoramic views and the decor is simple, letting the view do the talking.

I order the haddock rarebit, one of the day's specials, followed by tuna Niçoise and sit back and watch the restaurant slowly fill up. I'm early as I've driven from Swansea this morning, and I'm starving as my Welsh cake, hot off the griddle in Swansea market seems a long time ago.

Then comes the first of two appetisers I wasn't expecting. First there is a paper cornet of fat whitebait, with a paprika peppered mayonnaise, and better still, the black charcoal salt that is liberally sprinkled over my pat of butter to go with the warm bread, made on site of course.

Having enjoyed this enormously I wait for my haddock, but no, along comes another Welsh slate tray, this time with a cup of pungent coral fish bisque, with the winning Gruyere croute alongside, which remains crisp as it's dunked into the soup. Memories of Provence flood back, and you realise this is very fine French cooking, but on the Pembrokeshire coast, with little fuss, surrounded by a number of equally happy, quiet diners. The mix is mostly retired, a couple of younger pairs and some clean looking hikers. We watch the weather roll by outside, paddle boarders laughing as the rain spats by and dog walkers enjoying a run along the silken beach.

I'm told the lobster lands right here, crab comes from Carmarthen, and everything else is as local as is possible, and much of the veg comes from the kitchen gardens at parent hotel the Grove at Narberth www.thegrove-narberth.co.uk

Now the haddock arrives. A simple slab with a precise coat of rarebit made from Snowden Black Bomber, a lightly smoked strong cheddar that works perfectly with the undied fish, which breaks into pearlescent flakes as I hoof it up. Will Holland has such a light hand when it comes to seasoning and dressings, just the right balance between sweet and sour, enhancing the perfect cooking of the fish, 10/10

 

The haddock rarebit using Snowden's Black Bomber smoked Cheddar

Next up the tuna Niçoise, pink cubes of tuna, just seared on the outside, wine red within, alongside crisp split French beans, baby potatoes, quails eggs, lambs lettuce and fresh and slow roast tomatoes - the later being exceptional and adding depth. The black tapenade the potatoes were rolled in brought the whole classic together with pretty wild garlic flowers adding delicacy. Again, a winner. I didn't really notice what others were eating but this is a fish orientated menu, but if I came with the carnivore I’m sure the 28 day dry aged Welsh beef sirloin would tick the box.

No room or time for pudding – but if I did I would have the liquorice pana cotta with beetroot cake, blackcurrants and beetroot ice cream, so there.

Off to Milford Haven now, ahead of the Fish Festival which opens tomorrow. Will is doing a demo on the Sunday. Do try and visit if you can. The bay is shallow but you can anchor and row ashore, more info:

http://www.saundersfootharbour.co.uk/moorings-boat-storage.aspx

Brighton

Brighton

 

Brighton Marina

Call me a spoilt Solent softie but I’m really not sure about the value in travelling as far east as Brighton, unless you’re en route to Holland say? I know it’s a buzzing town, with over 800 food options (Trip Advisor) but the marina’s a bit grim and the water very grey –  at least it was when I visited so I probably need to come back when the sun is shining, and with a happier crew!

The surrounding countryside is far from grim though and I would recommend hiring a bike or taking the bus out to some of the surrounding villages, nestling in those glorious green Downs. June and July are the best months for being out and about in British bosky pastures –  beer gardens are accepted here.

However, back to this rocking Regency City where restaurants make their first ‘outside London opening’, see favourite Baker & Spice and more obvious Wahaca and Franco Manca – but there are some indie gems in those back streets, so here are just a few recommendations.

Perfect scrambled egg at Moksha with superb Compass Coffee

Breakfast: Moksha, on London Road.  An independent that’s been here for over 8 years and is run by Ollie, whose girlfriend is vegetarian so there are some modern twists on the menu which caters for all. We had the stack of blueberry pancakes, perfect scrambled eggs on toast, but the star for both quality and price was the bacon sandwich on sour dough £3.50 with a fried egg on top for £1. The sourdough lifts all the breakfasts, griddled crisp, adding flavour and sourced just round the corner. All ingredients are as local as possible, using Sussex growers for the meat and veg.

 

The stack of pancakes with blueberries within

Best coffee - Compass Coffee is roast at Littlehampton, and they have created a smooth Espresso blend called Brighton Lanes that is very easy on the pallet. Order on-line or try it first at Moksha, Plateau and Blackbird. www.coffeecompass.co.uk

Real Patisserie in Trafalgar Road - very good sour dough

Best baker; Real Patisserie, just round the corner at 43 Trafalgar Road, which is full to bust with more cafes and food options. We liked the look of Coffeetzar with it’s fried egg buns, but Real Patisserie’s glass counter had gleaming apricot, apple and lemon meringue tarts, as well as the afore mentioned sour dough, so we came away with bags bulging for later. I’m also a big fan of afore mentioned Baker & Spice, and have visited their Victoria shop many times. They don’t bake here in Brighton yet, but fresh breads etc come down each morning from London. Find them at 40 East Street. And I would have liked to try Café Plenty, newly opened, cool interior and a micro bakery on-site, it looked good, wish I had time to try it out – visit them on Circus Parade

 

Egg buns in Coffeetzar, also in Trafalger Road

Lunch: Silo, on quieter Upper Gardner Street, who’s by-line is ‘removing unnecessary processing of food’ so there is a flour mill in reception, to grind flours used in their breads and t’other side of the entrance to the restaurant is a shiny, hungry, moist and a tad smelly silver box that composts up the unavoidable waste of a restaurant. You are welcome to take some of this home to the garden. We didn’t have time, or room within, to eat here but would love to hear from those of you that have.

Or newly opened Franco Manca – if you fancy a decent wood fired pizza at a competitive price, sour dough base (bit of a theme here…be kind to your guts) we liked No 4 - Gloucester Old Spot ham, mozzarella, Buffalo Ricotta and wild mushrooms £6.70

Wine sans pesticides, herbicides and fertilisers also rocks my boat….try it out.

 

The flour grinder ready to roll in Silo

Cocktails: Cocktail Shack, Artist Residence, 34 Regency Square. These guys are fantastic and first came to my attention in Penzance of all places. Groovy place to stay if you get chucked off the boat. Rum, yes, and more rum… http://www.cocktailshackbrighton.co.uk/

Dinner : The Salt Room or 64 Degrees

The Salt Room, opposite West Pier, has a Josper Grill (exciting) and try to hit the Pre-Theatre or set lunch if you want to feel you’ve grabbed a bargain. Excellent seafood and grilled meats. Pre-theatre £15 for two courses.

http://www.saltroom-restaurant.co.uk/

64 Degrees, in the Lanes, has been awarded Michelin’s Bib Gourmand two years running and came 24^th in the National Restaurant’s Top 100 last year, for those that like these facts. Has been recommended by many, so definitely worth a punt

http://www.64degrees.co.uk/

 

Trolls Pantry can be found inside the Hobgoblin - burgers recommended

 

Best burger? The search continues, but top recommendations are Burger Brothers (very small seating area) Coggins & Co and Trolls Pantry in the colourful Hobgoblin Pub. Coggins & Co in Seven Dials would be my first call as owner Andrew choses top quality local beef from Redlands Farm in Horam, buns from our Real Patisserie and ice cream from Downs View, and the surroundings are a cut above the normal. All burgers are cooked medium and chips come triple fried in either beef dripping or organic vegetable oil. Drinking water is filtered on-site and served in lovely glass bottles – a nice touch.

BB burger – mushroom tapenade, Harvey’s rarebit and English mustard mayo £11.50

http://www.coggingsandco.com

www.deliveroo.co.uk available here, so choose, phone and wait peacefully on the boat

Best pub for Sunday lunch. Two choices here, both about 9 miles away, heading deep into the beautiful Sussex Downs.

First the Shepherd & Dog, in Fulking, at the foot of Devil’s Dyke. Cosy, attractive traditional pub with a lot going on and great food – dates to note

15^th July – Gin & Jazz

26 Aug – Beer Fest

You join National Cycle Route 2 and there’s a bit of a hill near the Dyke Golf Club – 11.5 miles bike ride. 9.5 miles the more direct walk.

http://shepherdanddogpub.co.uk

Lovely garden at the Shepherd & Dog,Gin and Jazz on the 15th July

Or the Half Moon at Plumpton, again about 9 miles away, but you can avoid Brighton itself on this route. Another delightful Sussex pub serving good food.

http://www.halfmoonplumpton.com

 

Busby & Wilds - an easy walk from the marina, great Sunday roasts

If you want a shorter walk try Busby & Wilds, at 9 Rock Street, Kempton. A very civilised pub in a quiet Regency back street a pleasant 20 minute walk along the waterfront from the marina. Great squid and Scotch Egg bar snacks and roasts.

http://www.busbyandwilds.co.uk

 Best tweeters @eatbrighton @Graphic_foodie @FoodieEshe @Love_Brighton

Ollie’s little black book

Best cheese shop, along the seafront at Hove: http://www.la-cave.co.uk/hb.php

The best brunch/lunch: http://thenewclubbrighton.com/

And the big night out....
http://blackdovebrighton.com/
http://www.plateaubrighton.co.uk/
http://www.thegreendoorstore.co.uk/