Bristol

Bristol Bites – and how!

‘Shipshape and Bristol fashion’ is believed to derive from the need to stow everything properly, as the old ships were left to wallow in the mud before the harbour was constructed, in 1809.

 

Bristling with history, museums and art, this City is buzzing with fast creative street food; and you can tie up smack bang in the centre of the historic Harbourside

First city in the UK to be granted European Green Capital status in 2015, innovation at every turn with Brunel’s benign eye cast from Clifton Bridge, he’s sure to know who Banksy is.

Getting here by boat: From the mouth of the River Avon, the Cumberland Basin Entrance to Bristol’s Floating Harbour lies 10.5km up river. The entrance lock is on port side approximately 0.7km beyond the historic Clifton Suspension Bridge.

What makes a great food scene?

 ‘ It’s mainly about having a critical mass of the sort of people who care about good food and, crucially, are prepared to go out, spend money and support independents. Bristol had a real ‘food scene’ ages ago, while many bigger cities are still wondering why they haven’t – and some of them never will. How could anyone not love Bristol?” 

From local lad Tim Hayward, who wrote ‘and reports for BBC4s Food Programme

Ok, we’ve tied up near Bordeaux Quay. Quick caffeine stop and small breakfast first – and what a choice.

Golden French toast from Bertinet's brioche, served at Spicer & Cole, Queen's Square

My favourite roasters Extract are based here in Bristol and many of the best cafes serve it, including Spicer & Cole, with an outlet handy for the harbour in Queen’s Square, and another up in Clifton. Bertinet’s brioche bronzed into eggy bread for breakfast, crisp bacon on the side, puddle of maple syrup and a couple of flat whites to wash it down. Other caffeine stops to consider:

Best coffee – closest to Harbourside first - Small Street Espresso (nr St Nicks) Blue Pig Café up on Colston St, tackle the Christmas Steps to get there – and breath! Near Zerodegrees and some cool shops. Bearpit Social is a bit of a hike, but worth the visit if you find yourself in central Bristol. Full Court Press – real specialists at 59 Broad St (not far from Small Street, but open earlier) are also a Bristol institution, with many fans and they run coffee appreciation courses.

Markets Now weave your way over to St Nicholas market – as you can do the circular walk round the harbour later – the market beckons.

You’ll find a few Bristol institutions here, such as Pieminister, surely the best pies around? Fantastic crisp pastry and a great choice of fillings, witty name, what more do you want? Also, the queues build outside Matina for their fragrant marinated lamb kofta in springy fresh Kurdish Naan bread. Other stalls to try - Ahh Toots (coffee and cake) Source Food Café (and shop – good for vittles) Playground Coffee, not forgetting Pickled Brisket for a dose of salt beef

  

Best bakers – Harts – under the arches at Temple Meads (Arch 35, google map ref - BS1 6QS) and Stock Exchange up near St Nicks, further afield, Park Bakery, renowned for its pizzas on the weekend. There are also some great delis around, including Papadelis and Wainwrights up at Clifton and a decent counter back at Bordeaux Quay, handy if you’re moored there.

The Stock Exchange near St Nicks market

Best baker underneath the arches at Temple Meads

Clifton – if you want a real leg stretch get up to Clifton, it’s a wonderful walk around the harbour then up towards Clifton Bridge, head right along Princess Victoria Street, where you will find the acclaimed Wallfish – top spot for that special night out – then onwards to café/ baker heaven, including Chandos Deli, Spicer & Cole and Primrose Café, opposite a mouth watering Wainwrights Deli, fill the bags then I dare you to  pass Anna’s door without sliding in to try some of her very fine, made on-site patisserie – try the tiny Canelles, works of art.

Wonderful old banks make great bars and cafes - this is Cosy Club

Best beer? I know we don’t always cover this, but when in Rome. With a positive rising of craft brewers in this epicenter of creativity you don’t need to travel far between watering holes, try the Grain Barge when you’re doing your circular walk, but don’t miss Copper Jacks Crafthouse, in one of Bristol’s many rejuvenated banks, Zerodegrees up on Colston Street for home crafted beer and lager (Mango?) top stop for a quick wood fired pizza. The Apple, all about cider is next door to Three Brothers, on the Harbour at the delightfully named Welsh Back.

Zerodegrees micro brewery in modern building with great pizzas

The big night out?

Wallfish or the Ox, or if you want to catch a cab and have your swimmers packed do try the Lido, and send me a photo.

Best burgers: for me Chomp is interesting as I also happen to like Bourbon, you also have Three Brothers on a barge at Welsh Back, conveniently close to the mooring, great value (£5 lunch deal), good views, Grillstock (seriously meaty) Burger Theory – at various markets, good veggie choices here, and my favourite chain is still Byron, but a bit of a hike on the Triangle near Clifton, and last but not least Five Guys, but it’s over at Cabot Circus.

 

Three Brothers Burger Barge on Welsh Back

 

Cocktails: I thought we should add this in, as January and February can be dire months, especially if you’ve dried out. My favourite Milk Thistle is a glorious dark speak easy behind a well hidden door – top tip, look for the engraved stone thistle above the doorframe. Best drink for a sailor – the Rhum Conference – with gold, white, French Blanc Agricole and spiced rums stirred with Demerara sugar and bitters. Further afield is Hausbar, so grab a taxi.

Milk Thistle's Rhum Conference

New: You can tell there is just too much to fit into my usual page but must add a new opening, just down from the boat, beyond Three brothers is Adelina Yard, modern European, recommended by the Telegraph's Xanthe Clay, so well worth a punt.

  

The hike: easy circular harbour walk starting wherever you’re moored up, crossing at the Avon Bridge so you can take in the new and old of Bristol, taking in the pastel coloured houses up on the ridge as you come back round towards Kaskelot and Bordeaux Quay – see maps on the Floating Harbour site below.

For more info visit:

www.bristolfloatingharbour.org.uk

www.visitbristol.co.uk

Best tweeter @Shonette

Very informative blog on all things Bristol and food www.lifelessorganised.com

 

What to see and do:

Floating Harbour

M Shed (free entry)

@Bristol – groovy Science for all the family

Arnolfini –art – good restaurant or sit outside

Brunel’s ss Great Britain – ticket lasts 12 months – the worlds first great Ocean Liner

Banksy’s - spot them around the City, look for 'Girl with the Pearl Earring'

Ferry trips across the Harbour

Grain Barge – beer

Bordeaux Quay – learn more about wine or real bread, good deli & bakery

Festivals - so many - see website

Markets: Harbourside Market every weekend 10-4

St Nicholas Market always worth a visit, open every day