Coast on shore at Coppet Hall Beach, Saundersfoot, Pembrokeshire
Breaking
news: Coast has just won AA Restaurant of the Year
I had read
about Coast when looking for the UK's
best beach cafes and the building itself lifts your spirits as you spot the
silvering wood curving back from the beach. Will Holland is the chef here, a well travelled Bristol
boy who gained his first Michelin star at La Bécasse in Ludlow before heading to the purpose built
dynamic building on the beach here at Coppet Hall. Within 10 days of opening
Coast had been awarded 2 AA rosettes, and have just won Restaurant of the Year,
2016.
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| The first surprise appetiser, plump, eyeball fresh whitebait with paprika mayo |
There is
ample parking (you need to pay) and a cafe and loos downstairs, but with Coast
getting the Lion's share of the building as all tables have panoramic views and
the decor is simple, letting the view do the talking.
I order the
haddock rarebit, one of the day's specials, followed by tuna Niçoise and sit
back and watch the restaurant slowly fill up. I'm early as I've driven from Swansea this morning, and I'm starving as my Welsh cake,
hot off the griddle in Swansea market seems a
long time ago.
Then comes
the first of two appetisers I wasn't expecting. First there is a paper cornet
of fat whitebait, with a paprika peppered mayonnaise, and better still, the
black charcoal salt that is liberally sprinkled over my pat of butter to go
with the warm bread, made on site of course.
Having
enjoyed this enormously I wait for my haddock, but no, along comes another
Welsh slate tray, this time with a cup of pungent coral fish bisque, with the
winning Gruyere croute alongside, which remains crisp as it's dunked into the
soup. Memories of Provence flood back, and you realise this is very fine French
cooking, but on the Pembrokeshire coast, with little fuss, surrounded by a
number of equally happy, quiet diners. The mix is mostly retired, a couple of
younger pairs and some clean looking hikers. We watch the weather roll by
outside, paddle boarders laughing as the rain spats by and dog walkers enjoying
a run along the silken beach.
I'm told the
lobster lands right here, crab comes from Carmarthen,
and everything else is as local as is possible, and much of the veg comes from
the kitchen gardens at parent hotel the Grove at Narberth www.thegrove-narberth.co.uk
Now the
haddock arrives. A simple slab with a precise coat of rarebit made from Snowden
Black Bomber, a lightly smoked strong cheddar that works perfectly with the
undied fish, which breaks into pearlescent flakes as I hoof it up. Will Holland
has such a light hand when it comes to seasoning and dressings, just the right
balance between sweet and sour, enhancing the perfect cooking of the fish,
10/10
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| The haddock rarebit using Snowden's Black Bomber smoked Cheddar |
Next up the
tuna Niçoise, pink cubes of tuna, just seared on the outside, wine red within,
alongside crisp split French beans, baby potatoes, quails eggs, lambs lettuce
and fresh and slow roast tomatoes - the later being exceptional and adding
depth. The black tapenade the potatoes were rolled in brought the whole classic
together with pretty wild garlic flowers adding delicacy. Again, a winner. I
didn't really notice what others were eating but this is a fish orientated
menu, but if I came with the carnivore I’m sure the 28 day dry aged Welsh beef
sirloin would tick the box.
No room or
time for pudding – but if I did I would have the liquorice pana cotta with
beetroot cake, blackcurrants and beetroot ice cream, so there.
Off to
Milford Haven now, ahead of the Fish Festival which opens tomorrow. Will is
doing a demo on the Sunday. Do try and visit if you can. The bay is shallow but
you can anchor and row ashore, more info:
