Just across the border, Penarth Quays sits behind the
impressive barrage, built 17 years ago to create Cardiff Bay
- an area of open water ideal for events, recreation and wildlife. Cardiff Bay
is now recognised as being one of the UKs most successful regeneration
programmes, creating a 500 acre freshwater lake, fed by the Rivers Taff and
Ely, in the former dockland area. The barrage enables vessels 24 hour access
now, through 3 locks, opening this whole area up and bringing new life and
prosperity to Tiger Bay.
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| The deck of the Custom House, looks over to Penarth Quays and across the barrage to Cardiff. |
For those of us who like to stretch our legs after a
long passage at sea the 13 km walkway around the Bay is recommended with the
Pont y Werin bascule bridge enabling cyclists and walkers to cross the Ely and
complete the circuit that takes in Penarth, with its famous pier; a very
popular resort in Victorian times with wide views over the Bristol Channel and
beyond.
The 340 berth marina is run by Quay Marinas, with manager Stuart Jones keeping a cheerful hand on the tiller here; a sheltered haven for yachtsmen and ideal place to live, with your boat at the bottom of the garden, and the joys of Cardiff just over the bay. There are boat parking meters at Mermaid Bay, how civilised, if you want to pop over for shopping and a spot of lunch.
Site facilities are good for a hungry girl just
driven over the Severn
Bridge so I trot off
happily to choose my lunch spot.
Diverting temporarily for a peep at the hypnotic
barrage, I check out Custom House,
an impressive building looking over the barrage and out to sea, but decide this
isn't for me this time, a bit too posh and I'm really not sure about chilled
cabinets full of food choices before cooked, and I'm a farmer's daughter! So I
walk along the quayside, admiring the colourful gardens and bods tweaking their
rigs ahead of the weekend.
Pier 64 is an iconic wood clad building hanging over the
marina, the superb deck area glazed to keep off the wind and strengthened to
take a crowd of 300+, proper engineering here and very stylish. This is more
like it. A cosmopolitan feel inside, bit sparkly, cocktails being shaken, but
friendly and offering all berth holders and visiting yachts 10% discount.
Penarth is probably best known for its Pier,
the planting is lovely here and the views wide and open to Barry Island, the Bristol
Channel, left to Cardiff and across the Bristol Channel to Weston Super-Mare
and beyond.
Along the esplanade is the recently opened James Sommerin, top rated restaurant with rooms above; renowned for his fascinating tasting menus, this is a special place for dinner as prices start for £60 for six courses, adding matching wine for another £40. I’m told the food is very good. It was very quiet when I visited and, dare I say, a little sterile? When I asked the marina if they had tried it out Stuart said he went there for a special birthday party and the food was exceptional, with service to match, so worth putting on the hot list next time.
Along the esplanade is the recently opened James Sommerin, top rated restaurant with rooms above; renowned for his fascinating tasting menus, this is a special place for dinner as prices start for £60 for six courses, adding matching wine for another £40. I’m told the food is very good. It was very quiet when I visited and, dare I say, a little sterile? When I asked the marina if they had tried it out Stuart said he went there for a special birthday party and the food was exceptional, with service to match, so worth putting on the hot list next time.
So heading back into town I spot Bar 44, owned by two brothers, with just three bars in their Spanish
chain: one in Cardiff, another in Cowbridge, and this one in Penarth, which is
a favourite of the marina team and I like the look of the long polished bar,
list of tapas, Spanish gin and tonic specials and flight of sherries. It has a
lovely atmosphere and the Iberica ham looks the business at the back of the
bar. The little garden is bathed in afternoon sunshine. I will return later,
but there is time to check out the best butcher, baker and fruit and veg stall
in town, before heading back to the marina for afternoon tea in Compass Café, run by Marcus and Craig
and open every day for some classic breakfasts, served until 4pm.
They are very popular with berth holders, cyclists and walkers, as well as all the workers at Penarth Quays. They use local where they can, bread from Brutons, Welsh tea from the Tea Birds and speciality cup cakes from the Cup and Cake Bakery just over the Bay. They are just working on a new afternoon tea menu and I’ll be back to try it. Cheerful, bright café that knows its customer well.
They are very popular with berth holders, cyclists and walkers, as well as all the workers at Penarth Quays. They use local where they can, bread from Brutons, Welsh tea from the Tea Birds and speciality cup cakes from the Cup and Cake Bakery just over the Bay. They are just working on a new afternoon tea menu and I’ll be back to try it. Cheerful, bright café that knows its customer well.
There is so much to do here in Penarth, and with Cardiff and it’s Dr Who Experience and International
Sports Centre over the way, I’m planning a longer visit next time.
The hike (and bike - Nat Cycle Network Route 8): There is a great choice
of traffic free trails around Cardiff
Bay, taking in as much history,
shopping, wildlife and nourishment as you wish. Starting at 6 miles but you can
extend easily to 9 ….and beyond, see:
Guest little red
book - ex pro Cardiff Blues prop Gary Powell:
Pub - The Pilot - best pint of Peroni and ham egg &
chips
Coffee#1 – owned by Cardiff
based brewers Brains, so almost local here
Butcher – David Lush – minted lamb chops and chipolatas
Baker – Brutons, 106 Glebe Street
Fruit &
Veg – Windsor Fruit Store, in pretty
Arcade off Windsor Street
Afternoon
tea – Hamptons,
Ludlow Lane – served from 3pm for £11.99 pp,
call to book so they can get cooking 029 2070 5391
www.zegomarine.co.uk/ ; Baia Vita – private water taxi to run you over to Cardiff
