Sunday, 31 May 2015

Chichester Harbour



Chichester Harbour
Bite 12


One of our prettiest natural harbours, with the old world charm of Itchenor, the briny bustle of Bosham and the culture of Chichester; add in some great beaches at the Witterings, fun, fast racing with some beautiful day boats to watch from waterside pubs and you have it all.
 
Chichester Marina, locked but lovely.

There is a choice of moorings in the Harbour – see www.conservancy.co.uk for more detail, we plumped for Premier, who run the conveniently placed, very pretty Chichester Marina, which sits on the Salterns Way, offering an attractive hike or bike into Chichester, renowned for its theatre, shops, restaurants and the perfectly formed Pallant House Gallery. 

 
Dell Quay on a Sunday lunchtime, an easy walk along Salterns Way

A small, theatrical town buzzing with a great choice of restaurants, allowing you to take advantage of the pre theatre menus, that are usually well-priced and allow you time to get back to the boat in daylight!  This is a compact walking town with lovely gardens around the Cathedral, some good independent shops and a thriving theatre that attracts decent plays (and players) from London and a serious Art Gallery.
Salterns Way, by bike or foot

We got on the bikes, walking past the steady queue outside the Boat House, towards the lock building, where much fun is had watching the ebb and flow, rope throwing, skipper shouting and boaters’ banter, whilst waiting to cross over t’other side to cycle along the Salterns Way
   

The Crown & Anchor at Dell Quay, worth a visit



  

 





 




 Wild flowers, verdant barley fields and the blue glimpse of the harbour to our left, we sped along towards the spire of the Cathedral, but couldn’t resist a glimpse at the Crown & Anchor, in top spot at Dell Quay, under new ownership now. Have heard good things about their new menu, locally sourced ingredients and their oyster & fizz bar. 
We will be back – as Chichester and caffeine were calling, but if you’ve been recently let me know.



Attibassi's cool interior

We are ready for a stiff coffee and head straight to Attibassi Coffee, in Church Square. I love the way this retro, Roman style espresso house rubs shoulders with Raymond Blanc on one side and fellow Italian Carluccios on the other, but is cooler and busier than either. The uber bright red espresso machine looks like an enormous radiogram, but sits well with the red leather banquette seating and interesting architectural wallpaper.
Great coffee, and, for mocha fans try a café Nutella, and an Aperol Spritz to accompany your panini. Now off for a quick whizz round Pallant House, with its wonderful minimalist garden, pleached  London Plane trees and some great sculpture

Pallant House gardens, a nice looking cafe too.


We could easily have stopped for a slice of cake in the temptingly tasteful cafe but we have other plans. Whilst cycling past the Cathedral – we wanted to see how the Peregrine chicks were doing, see www.visitchichester.org for more info, but you should be able to see the parents and fledglings well into June I hope – we spotted an interesting sign ‘Belle Isle’ it said,we went in. 


     
Can't beat a good club sandwich - Belle Isle


 
 








 





I loved the interior of Belle Isle, all bright big bar, smiley staff, stencilled washed wood, lots of fun for a group, or to bring the teens, who will love the fish finger sandwiches and burritos.
We had a lunch date at Amelie & Friends though, as it came highly recommended for a special night out – as did No 1 and Food & Fork, all independents.
These top guys are not particularly cheap, for example Food & Fork’s Market Menu is £19.50 for two delicious courses, but Côte can knock £10 off this, if you are in the mood for simple calamari and Steak frites, and I have to say they do this very well, even if they are a chain – but with exceptionally good bread, flown in from Paris daily I’m told? 

The review: Amelie and friends….


We started with the asparagus, with poached egg and wild garlic emulsion. Now I love asparagus, but think there was too much emulsion and not quite enough flavour. However this was compensated when the Onglet steak arrived with its Port jus and some fine fluffy chips, really crunchy on the outside, but great mashed up in some of the jus – full of flavour.

The Onglet cut - underated in the UK - full of flavour and bite if cooked correctly

The warm lemon meringue pie with raspberry sorbet was magnificent – top marks to pastry chef.

Lunch came to £35 each with a glass of Picpoul, many happy neighbours enjoying a special Sunday lunch feeling. Nice conservatory and patio with some fine old olive trees at the back.

Other favourites:
Whipped & Baked – sour dough and a great choice of cakes and bakes
Artisan Café – best brownies
The Exclusive Cake Shop & Vintage Tea Rooms – what a mouthful, but can vouch for the wonderful cakes and teas in this wee gem of a place. Try the Cowdray Afternoon Tea
Russell’s Garden Centre – Birdham, try the sausage rolls in the deli section, nice café. 1 hr walk from Marina = 3 miles; www.russellsgardencentre.com/restaurant/

The bike: Salterns Way - 18km route from the centre of Chichester out to the sand dunes at East Head, conveniently via Chichester Marina. Well kept path, not road bike suitable.
 
The cycle rout home - via the canal basin
The hike - we cycled into Chi from Chichester Marina - just over 4.5 miles, so will take about an hour and a half. If you haven't time or inclination to walk this far I would suggest the lovely river walk (30 mins, 1.6 miles & come back via the fields) to Dell Quay (clearly signed once you cross the lock) and have lunch at the Crown & Anchor. And there are a couple of walks within Chichester itself. I loved the Tree Trail, as I like trees, but the City Walls walk looked fun too and takes you into the Bishop's Palace Garden, lovely in May. We cycled back via the Ship Basin, along the tow path.

The Cathedral Gardens - great picnic area
  
 
More info:
Moorings/ Salterns Way Cycle Route: www.conservancy.co.uk
Bosham moorings call the Quay master on 01243 573336
Chichester Marina:www.premiermarinas.com/uk-marina-locations/chichester-marina
Theatre: www.cft.org.uk.     Educating Rita from 18th June