Bite 15 - Brixham

Bite 15 - Brixham 

Brixham makes a great stop off on your way west after leaving Portland, with a sheltered wide bay, dramatic headlands at Berry Head and a choice of two marinas.

The South Coast's most productive fishing port fills up the western corner of Tor Bay, sheltered by its long breakwater, nodding over to the resort town of Torquay, with its stylish old villas punctuating the cliffs and an hourly ferry connecting the two. With its back to the west, many gardens are shaded, whilst enjoying superb views over this busy bay, awash with bright sails, fishing boats and ferries most days through our very British Summer.

 

MDL's Brixham Marina with dedicated Jetski base

Brixham's old trawlers

We arrive and are shown to a visitor's berth at MDL's marina, they also own Torquay Marina so you can decide which suits your needs, or wind direction, but I want to get over to the huge fish market, built some five years ago and dominating the right hand side of the harbour where the trawlers and smaller fishing boats take pride of place.

We arrive early so off to find a decent cup of coffee, having been tipped off that there are at least three good independents - closest is Millie and Me, then the West Country Deli, or newer kid on the block, but a bit further to walk (up Fore Street and on your left, past a really good fruit and veg shop) you'll find Bay Coffee & Cake Company, and the good looking cakes are all made locally.

West Country Deli, convivial hosts and great coffee

Millie & Me's fruity cocktail list

Sophie runs Millie and Me which is in King Street, conveniently tucked behind the recently refurbished New Quay Inn, overlooking the harbour, but bizarrely not open until 5.30pm, but locals tell us it's a good stop off for a pint or glass of wine, before heading to Simply Fish for supper - just over the street, all a gentle 10 minute stroll from the marina.

We share a bacon butty and I try the flat white, whilst admiring the team preparing for their Pink Banana event, kicking off with a barbeque at lunch time and some fruity cocktails later. Sophie and a friendly couple at the next table put me straight about where I should head next.

The fab chaps from the local branch, shucking away for the RNLI

But before I hit the deli I fancy the walk out past the marina to Berry Head, as it's still early and a glorious sunny morning. Brixham has some lovely smuggler's alleys and we sneak along Newquay Lane walking along the quay, past the marina and slap into an RNLI fundraising day - the end of a whole week I believe, God love 'em! A fab team of four are doing their darnedest to shuck two enormous tubs of scallops, to serve later on with chorizo, chilli and lime I'm told and why the heck not? Concentrate Hopkins! 

On to the little beach, with immaculate Ikea photo fit flat pebble discs, the most perfect skimming stones ever, before climbing the concrete steps up to the street that is signed Berry Head and Shoalstone Lido - which I have been watching on Twitter. 

Shoalstone Lido - a wonderful community project on the road to Berry Head

A fabulous local project to update one of our rare seaside swimming pools, with gorgeous retro imagery and a cracking view as you plough up and down to keep warm - yes, it's refreshing, and I note it's the hardy mature mermaids in their cossies and the kids in wetsuits!

 

We can't linger. Berry Head Hotel beckons, with it’s magnificent views out to sea and over Tor Bay to Torquay. This makes a delightful lunch or dinner date, as you have walked just far enough to tackle the local Moules Mariniere, or possibly the smoked haddock and Applewood Cheddar fish cake whilst enjoying the Mediterranean view from the terrace.

The terrace at the ideally positioned Berry Head Hotel

Did you know?: The hotel was built at the start of the 1800s as a military hospital, serving the Napoleonic forts at Berry Head, later Henry Francis Lyte lived here, and wrote 'Abide with me' just four months before his death in 1847, inspired by his surroundings and perhaps suspecting something was up?

The hike: Our old mate the SW Coastal Path runs along these wonderful cliffs and you can go all along the River Dart if so inclined. We rounded Berry Head, passing the somewhat squat Lighthouse before wending our way back into Brixham, bacon butty walked off, but too early for the hotel’s high tea, served between 2.30 and 6.30, mental note to re-visit.

Back in Brixham the dilemma is lunch. I have three recommendations; Simply Fish, at the base of Fore Street, across from Millie and Me, with a lovely big parasol which would make lunch outside possible as the sun is streaming down, Bistro 46, family owned and producing some creative and unusual cooking from a tiny kitchen, but I didn't really fancy the lunch menu so will come back one evening soon, and as I still hadn't managed to get into the Fish Market - and neither was I - I'm whizzing along to Mitch Tonk's Rockfish before you can shout salt and pepper.

View over the fishing harbour from Rockfish's deck

The review

This lovely light barn of a room, with open rafters and gleaming copper bar is my sort of a place. The big deck wraps round the building, so plenty of room, choice of sun or shade and looks out over the fleet of working boats to the heritage sailing trawlers, ferries and leisure boats. A feast for the eyes, but what shall I chose for my plate?

 















Gosh - Rockfish Fritto Misto - red gurnard and monkfish filets with calamari and prawns too?

Then I saw tempura fried oysters and by now you might know that I have to have these little crisp gobbets of sea fresh phlegm whenever I see them on the menu. Rockfish serve them sitting atop their shell which is filled with a vibrant green cucumber relish; it really works and is fresh, not fiery and also a good dip with the chips.
 

My pal has a very generous portion of super fresh, plump, cod goujons with unlimited chips, for just £7.95. The neighbours had the Fritto Misto - great to share as a starter if you want to try a few other specials, like the salt & pepper prawns, calamari or scallops, straight off the boats below. You get a choice of three or four fish of the day that you can have cooked very simply with not a hint of batter; today we had Dover or Lemon Sole and plaice.

Good choice of wines, nice to have a small pichet when you order just a glass, can recommend the Muscadet. A couple of decent local draught beers and Rockfish Sea Cider goes down well with the older teens.

Top tip – visit the loos and listen to an interesting twist on the Shipping Forecast, my favourites being Lundy, Monday, Tuesday, Wednesday, Rockall - sod all! Indeed.

Now I still need to visit West Country Deli and am so glad I did as I load up with great local cheese and eggs and have a quick cortado whilst reading the menu. This is a great quick lunch stop and the platters look tempting. Very friendly couple Jo and Mark run this outfit and have chosen their own blend of organic, fair trade and Rainforest Alliance Certified beans – try it. If you’ve hiked out round Berry Head you may well wish to try their Devon Cheese Tea?

Onwards to Dartmouth – see you in September.

Info

Brixham Tourism - englishriviera.co.uk

Rockfish          www.therockfish.co.uk

Simply Fish     01803 883858             they do a full take away service too   

Bistro 46          01803 858936

Berry Head Hotel         01803 853225

Millie and Me                01803 858488

West Country Deli      01803 855775

Brixham Harbour Office 01803 851854

Fishstock 5th September fishstockbrixham.co.uk tickets £6, under 16s free

The fish market opens its doors and celebrates the local bounty - try and buy. Great SW chefs cook for you, live entertainment, look round the trawlers - all in aid of the Fishermen's Mission 

Brixfest – 28 May – 1^st June 2016. 

Bite 15 Cowes, Isle of Wight. Words and pictures by Penny Hopkins

The Cowes Classics come to town ahead of Cowes Week. Photo Credit Paul Wyeth

As Portsmouth Harbour calms down with the departure of the dynamic AC teams to Gothenburg our rumbling tummies cry out for sustenance and carbs to survive the week that is Cowes.

We follow the glorious Js into Cowes as they enter the Solent to dip their formidable masts to the Royal Yacht Squadron in its Bicentenary Year. I come via the jolly Red Jet, passing Elenaora as we dock and revel in the news that five Js will be seen racing here this summer. See www.aamcowesweek.co.uk

Now many of you will have your favourite haunts in Cowes, built up over years of fun, and I'm not going to begin to rate the many yacht clubs in Cowes but just list Best Bites top mouthfuls

Todays top favourites are: the Coast Bar and the Mess Canteen

A lighter breakfast at Coast if you need to leave space for lunch

I start at Coast Bar, passing a busy Tiffins on the way as I want to see how many people are eating breakfast at 10.30 in the morning - the lucky skivers! I'm not disappointed; two families, a couple of single gents checking the papers and an attractive table of French yachtsmen fill the charming open room, with long bar, fresh flowers and open brickwork that holds a huge black board with the breakfast specials marked up - an impressive list. Breakfast is an important meal, we know this, but in Cowes it could well be the yard stick you are measured by, that grinding and spinny flying being hungry work!

The Coast Full English at £6.95 is top dog here, good local bacon and sausage, real mushrooms plus black pudding. Eggs Benedict at £6.50 and eggs anyhow on toast at £4.95, toast and jam £2.50. Jam by Tiptree, coffee by Hampshire based Mozzo

Delightful ambience, helpful, friendly team, I'll be back later to check out the wood fired pizza oven that has just been lit and to see the lunch specials - these guys get through a lot of chalk!

 

Above Coast Bar is one of Cowes favourite Italians, Tonino's, traditional and reliable, and in the revered Peter Cumberlidge's top 10, say no more. But, we can't go there now. Passing Tiffins again, more people on the terrace enjoying their Lavazza and bacon baguettes, I note they do crew hampers.

Well Bread Company - will definitely try the croissants next time

On a mission I pass the Well Bread Company. Attractive, large loaves stacked in the window, big sharing table inside but most people were outside in the sun. This should be Hop's heaven as I love a good bakery and to enjoy a decent coffee (they import Noble Bean) whilst sampling their Vienoisserie should be my Nirvana - but it seems hot and bothered in here, staff are harried, and I don't linger as I haven't reached my second favourite yet.

 

Mess Canteen is a welcoming tunnel of a cafe, cosy seating in the snug at the back and convivial team smiling at the counter. Blackboards abound here too, and as the specials run out they get wiped out, no microwaves used here, stuff cooked fresh and when it’s gone, it’s gone. Local producers are listed, tea & coffee is from Clifton. The girls in the AAM Cowes Week Office love this place, and I see Matt & Cat's bright green sticker on the window, further reassurance.

Best Bites here include the tempura soft shell crab burger (when they can catch the little nippers), the fish cakes and for a quick lunch the Croque Madame. Iced coffee and I’m happy here.

 

The Messy blackboard

 But must visit Moocow, just off the main drag and with its own Greek Island style bright white sparkle, a sunny terrace, and all shiny orange, super clean calm inside. I want to try the vegetable tempura here as I’ve heard it’s fab, but in a snap of terrible judgement I go for the aubergine & halumi stack. It looks fantastic, but sadly tastes of very little and the generous slices of cheese are too thick to crisp at the edges, so make for some energetic chewing – a shame, but my fault probably, just too healthy for me and I look longingly at the calamari and baked fish in paper. I’m going to come back with a small gang of grazers and work through the menu as it all reads and looks a dream.

Note: Ladies Night 13 Aug, DJ and cocktails on the terrace, but closed 14 & 15 – great for private functions

Moocow's aubergine & halumi stack

On my re-visit to the Coast Bar, the place is full, both rooms are buzzing, the terrace full. Again, a good mix - business lunches, three generation families, couples and dogs. Happy eaters and drinkers, the pizza oven is delivering beautifully charred bottoms in minutes.

    

BB choice pizza with garlic & thyme slow roast mushrooms, prosciutto cotto and mascarpone, followed by lemon posset. Other favourites are the pan fried sea bass and the meatballs were flying out of the kitchen too. Good wine list, the Chablis on the black board was perfect.

Breaking news: Harbour Kitchen has just opened next to the Food Hamper, the second string to the Coast Bar, but here they will serve less formal, faster street food, with 2 bars across 2 floors. Open in time for Cowes Week and run by Harry Joubert, open 12am -11pm, longer at weekends. Try it and let me know.

Get away from it all at the convivial Lifeboat at East Cowes Marina

For a bit of peace & quiet: head over to East Cowes to get away from the crowds and enjoy the sunny terrace at the Lifeboat whilst watching the circus on the other side

   

Happy sailing at Cowes Week 2015 - photo by Mike Townshend

Contacts:

www.cowes.co.uk  

www.aamcowesweek.co.uk

The Coast Bar      01983 298574     15 Shooters Hill – best to book, especially weekends/ Sun lunch

Mess Canteen     01983 280083     63 High Street – will do private functions for 40+ don’t take bookings

Moocow                 01983 200750     55 Cross St - great decor, art and mezze

Tiffins                     01983 292310     takeaways, crew packs, good breakfasts

Cowes Tandoori  01983 296710     Every Tuesday 3 course meal for £10.95 + no corkage fee

Tonino’s                01983 298464     8-9 Shooters Hill - Cheerful Italian

Best Bites traveled courtesy of Red Jet, the fastest way to West Cowes. See timetables: www.redfunnel.co.uk 
Thanks also go to Marina at Clearline Comms and Amy at Carswell Gould

               

Bite 13 - Christchurch Harbour

Bite 13 Christchurch Harbour/ Mudeford Quay

With the summer season now upon us it's time to get the sand between your toes and enjoy some very British seaside fun. So we borrow the old Windy and head to Mudeford Quay, where you can moor off the beach or tackle the Race and head into the harbour - max draft 3.5”, so worth doing a little research before hand - more info www.christchurch.gov.uk and moorings@christchurch.gov.uk

Christchurch Harbour was formed at the end of the Ice Age, some 7000 years ago, when sea levels rose, (yep, that old chestnut) vital history repeats itself, and what wonderful natural beauties are created in the process.

 

There was a piece in the paper a few weeks ago titled 'Des res by the sea, no facilities, a bargain at £240k' yes , we were talking about this magical, money earning spit of sand that has the most glorious stretch of beautifully coloured beach huts, providing real family fun through our long British summer season.

 

 Being mid-week we tie up on the pontoon at Mayor’s Mead, on the Stour, enabling us to get the bikes and find the lovely path out to Hengistbury Head starting on Wick Lane.

The Review; The Jetty right on the harbour in the grounds of the Christchurch Harbour Hotel.

 

     

Chef Alex Aitken has worked his magic around this area for many years, via le Poussin and Limewood before settling in Christchurch where he runs three restaurants, move over Padstein we have Mudken now.

The Jetty is a stunning, contemporary timber and glass building, set on the water’s edge. The cloud pruned trees on the terrace adding a Riviera feel, helped along by an azure sky with high cloud mottling – beautiful. All diners get a view of the harbour, interesting at whatever state of the tide, but we watched it roll in and Highcliffe Sailing Club  battle it out against Mudeford SC for their Wednesday evening dinghy race.

We chose the Colombard, a perfect light white to go with our selection of fish. The Jetty’s Villa Saint Michel is a quality example and I can also recommend the Picpoul, though more expensive. It may be old fashioned but they still do les amuse bouche here, and I have to say, it always makes me smile. This time it was a selection of tender warm octopus in a chilli sauce, a dinky seafood scotch egg and some ‘sweet as a nut’ tiny brown shrimp. 

Amuse bouche had us smiling

Alex believes in local and makes the most of Dorset produce. Starters were bouillabaisse for me (as I can never resist the rouille, spread on bread and parmesan mallarky floater) and the infamous Alex twice cooked cheese soufflé, with crunchy, caramalised edges and gooey, eggy joy in the middle; superb.

 

Alex's classic twice baked cheese souffle

Scallops from Weymouth with smokin blobby bits

The bream on crushed new potatoes was just as it should be, the sustainable fish flaking easily on the fork and the buttery spuds tasting like the first Jersey Royals used to - it has something to do with seaweed I’m told, or rather, the lack of it being spread on the land.

And the Weymouth scallops were a delight, visually and orally. Firm, sweet, with a smoked cauliflower puree, apple sauce blobs and cubes of divine pork belly. We couldn’t manage pudding so went for a walk around the deck before the light went.

Tel 01202 400950 dine@thejetty.co.uk

 

The easy path that takes you out to Hengistbury Head

Beautiful carved gate at the visitor's centre by Tom Harvey

The hike or bike: Our old friend Nat Cycle Route 2 takes you out of Christchurch to the sea, Hengistbury Head or to the beach huts at Mudeford and the convivial Beach House Café.

If walking the 2 + miles you can easily catch the train back to Christchurch.

The cycle is a doddle along good, level tarmac, enjoying wonderful views, and avoiding pedestrians.

The nature reserve centre at Hengistbury Head is worth a stop off, if only to admire the beautiful carved gates by sculpture Tom Harvey.

The train will run tired legs back to Christchurch

  

Best of the rest:

Fish & chips – Alexander’s along the main Mudeford Road, past the Nelson pub and before Stanpit. Great reliable fish and chips and worth the queue, then take them along to the quay and watch the sun go down with salty fingers.

Best fish & ships in town? Alexanders on Mudeford Road

The Beach House – over the water via the ferry, casual café with friendly young staff, great for a coffee break or crab cakes and a glass of rose.

Hops tops – the mussels and salmon niciose. Maybe pricey for the actual quality, when compared to other eateries around but for setting and logistics – most of their produce comes over via ferry, just enjoy the moment.

 

The King's Arms - good cocktails, great spot for Sunday lunch

The King’s Arms – walking into Christchurch from Mudeford this pub is on the right just past the bridge, again run by Alex Aitken, who has created a buzzing bar with DJs on Frid & Sat nights

Hops Tops: the 15 mile menu for £15 for 2 courses and a ‘Once Upon a Cosmo’ to start. #local

The Captain’s Table – an attractive minimalist white sugar cube of a building, on the river’s edge as you head up the Stour. Great spot for early drinks or cocktails on the terrace but I haven’t eaten here recently – send your thoughts in if you have please.