Isle of Wight
The Island is not big, just 23 miles across, but there is too much going on to cover in one Bite so this is Act 1 and we'll visit the Bembridge area for Act 2, when it’s warmed up a bit.
Yarmouth is everyone's favourite sleepover with institutions such as Saltys and the George playing their part, but there are some dynamic new kids on the block so let's stretch our legs and get out there.
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| Yarmouth Sunset |
First, a caffeine pit stop at PO41, once the old post office, just opposite The George. Perfect for sleepy heads coming in off their boats or the ferry. Elaine runs a buzzing, cosy, top coffee joint, from 7.30 – 4pm every day, bless her! Union Coffee – fab.
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| Elaine at PO41 |
The bike
The Freshwater Flyer is the 6 mile flat ex railway line towards Freshwater, an easy hike enjoying glimpses of the Yar through the trees. Hire a bike and you can extend your route to go out towards Alum and Totland Bays for a 12 mile circular route, more info from John at Wight Cycle Hire
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| The route |
When you arrive at Freshwater the options open up, coffee stop, light lunch?
As I'm heading on to Tennyson Down I turn right at the sea front and head up the hill to The Piano as I've heard great things about Sam and Kimmy buying the old shop that has been a piano, music and stationery shop, come PO through it's lyrical past, tuning Queen Victoria's ol’ piano and selling Tennyson sheet music; it now serves great coffee, mezze and light snacks with live piano sessions most weekends. www.thepianocafe.co.uk 01983 472874
Top time to visit - Sunday lunch when the ivories are being tinkled.
Hops choice - the hand made Florentines with a coffee or Jan's tart of the day – being goats cheese, thyme and Island sun dried tomato when I visited. Coffee by Island Coffee
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| The Piano |
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| The Tart of the day |
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| Live Music |
The other option is the ever popular End of the line cafe – 01983 752870. Serves great quiches, jacket potatoes and wonderful cheese scones. Great value and always busy.
The hike:
If I wasn't cycling I would walk back through the charming village of Freshwater to the Red Lion, right next to the church. Cosy, good beer and reliable pub food. Beware mobile users - turn it off before entering or they'll fine you! www.redlion-freshwater.co.uk 01983 754925
Then cross the old causeway and take the path back to Yarmouth – see map for choice of route.
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| The Red Lion |
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| The route |
But I'm saving room for our review and coming back from my trip back into Yarmouth I pull up at the first carriage available at Off the Rails
The review
Off the Rails opened in the summer, after local interior designers opened up this wonderful sunny space that was the disused station. Wight Cycle Hire is located at the end of the building making this the perfect start for your island cycling adventure. Overlooking Thorley Brook wetland with the glass doors fully open to the November sunshine, and the wood burner a glow, what a joyful stop off this is!
Philippe Blot who runs the place is full of ideas, from Orient Express evenings to some more intimate dining experiences, bringing a bit of cinematic drama to the station in the winter months – so get your ‘smoking’ out of the wardrobe, polish the pearls and watch this space!
There is a good mix already seated. A handful of well behaved dogs (they have their own menu) and more walkers than cyclists today – but this is mid November. I grab a table near the woodburner that looks out over the golden marshes and along the banquettes upholstered in BR green. Suitcases stored up in the luggage racks give me a warm Hogwarts Express feel. Now, let’s look at the specials. Immediately I am attracted to the Gally Bagger Rarebit, with blackberry, beetroot and sweet red onion chutney or how about the Warm Corn-fed chicken salad with pesto, sun blushed tomatoes, roasted peppers and crispy chicken skin? I’m told by the party at the next table that OTR figs stuffed with goat’s cheese is formidable, but not on today, so actually plump for the Signalman’s stew of slow braised lamb with spring vegetables and spices, delicious with warm ciabbata (all £8) and as I didn’t try the Rarebit, Philippe brought me a taster of the Isle of White Cheese’s own Gally Bagger, a golden, nutty tasting, hard cheese, that apparently means Scarecrow in Island tongue.
There are some lovely fresh drink options, the homemade pink lemonade is a tart hit for me and I like the addition of the ‘pichet’ option on the wine list, common in most French eating establishments – allowing you to try more interesting wines without buying the whole bottle. The cocktail list will have to wait until the sun has gone over the signal post, but there may be time for the Strawberry and Pimms Eton Mess or the Chocolate Fondant (all £5.50)
www.offtherailsyarmouth.co.uk 01983 761600
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| Off the rails |
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| The View |
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| Signalman's Stew |
It’s still sunny outside as I leave to head back into Yarmouth to check out what’s new in Harwoods, surely one of the most upmarket hardware shops around? In fact there is a great choice of retail treats for those visiting sailors, from antiques, to art, to quirky clothing.
Just time to pop into the George to sit by the fire with a cup of tea and look at the afternoon tea menu
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| The George Illustrated by Connell & Todd |
Best of the rest:
Wightwood Pizza van - hibernates from Nov - April, but can be found in Freshwater Bay every Friday from Easter 'till November - photo - 07955 379642
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| The Pizza Van |
Best baker - up for award this month - The Island Bakers. In Yarmouth you can buy it in the deli - best buy, the sourdough and some amazingly crisp and buttery croissants
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| The Island Bakers |
Best coffee - PO41 Already mentioned above - coffee emporium in the old post office opposite The George. They use Union Coffee, the Revelation, for those who care.
Cosiest pub in Yarmouth? The King's Head - by the ferry terminal
Thanks to:
Wightlink Ferries www.wightlink.co.uk
Best tweeters: @MattandCat @TasteIW @yarmouthiow @ONTyarmouth @BiteTheWight
Credit to Connell & Todd for illustration of the George, Yarmouth. www.connellandtodd.com
Map of Island cycle route: http://www.sunseaandcycling.com/Files/Documents/route1.pdf
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