No. 9 Southampton

- home to the Boat Show. 

Contributing £990 million to the UK economy through it's Container Port & Cruise Ships. Voted 'Best UK Departure Port' from the 1.5 million passengers that pass through Southampton's Ocean Terminus

And celebrating 50 years of being a city – without a cathedral.

During the chillier months it's good to take the boat out for a short run, fire the engines, flap the sails, but with something hot at the end to make it all worthwhile. I have a soft spot for Southampton, as I spent my formative years down on the Beaulieu River (see April issue of All at Sea) and if you are Solent based it makes a good day trip to take in a movie, do some shopping or stay over and do it all, plus dinner and a light flutter maybe?

I'm thinking steam up to Ocean Village where Picture House's Harbour Lights has a great view over the marina. The staff are fun, the wine list well researched and the pizzas not bad at all. Film quiz once a month on Tuesday nights is great fun and their cakes and cookies go down well with a nice cup of tea.

Harbour Lights, great wine list and you can take it in to the movie

I was working in Southampton when Ocean Village was born, we built the Royal Southampton Yacht Club and the traditional townhouses on the pier. I now look on with admiration and incredulity at the high rise apartments that thrust an 'I told you so' digit skywards. According to the Sunday Times, Southampton boasts one of the best returns in buy-to-let in the country, and Ocean Village is the top earner.

Skyscrapers & Solent racing

Once you’re tied up there are many choices: the afore mentioned Harbour Lights, the waterfront bars of Banana Wharf and Pitcher & Piano – the latter being my favourite; a clean, fun place to watch the sun go down and enjoy happy hour or something more nourishing..

Cosy interior of Pitcher and Piano

Lunch deal at Pitcher and Piano

No 4 Canute Road is my absolute favourite in this area and I would head here for a great coffee (Anvil for those who notice) or perhaps their range of nibbles and drinks before heading off to the cinema; but my top tip is to get up early on a bright morning and do Jane Austen’s walking trail that takes you around the more interesting buildings of old Southampton, then have brunch here at No 4. All you can eat from the buffet, the teen made short work of it and returned…

No 4 Canute Road

This area is seeing some dramatic building and the area around Queen’s Square some pleasant gentrifying – I approve. 

Elegant Queen's Square

The choice of restaurants found along Oxford Street has always been good but my favourites remain The White Star and Simon’s at Oxfords (used to be simply Oxfords) 

Simon's at Oxfords

If you stay at Town Quay you have the ever buzzing Margharitas on-site, but can step over the road to Regatta for tapas or to Ennios for one of the best value Sunday roasts cooked by an Italian restaurant – cosy and friendly. Further you have the Pig in the Wall – mentioned in our Southampton Boat Show round-up – just piggy bits here (cold meats & cheeses) and a decent drink from the bar, nice surroundings, quite like the afternoon tea and slice of cake but they have competition with Harbour Lights chocolate and chilli cake and No 4’s fresh pastries ….

La Regata – Spanish olé and tapas 

 Ennios Sunday lunch

If you want a more sheltered night, then a quieter destination can be found at Shamrock Quay, tucked up the River Itchen, where the Yellow Welly Café and new kid on the block Quay 15 are based. I worked at Shamrock Quay back in the day when Dean & Dyball's development wing was based here and it was an unexpected oasis of productivity in the ugly docklands area that now is home to Saints Stadium. 

Saints stadium at St Mary’s

Shamrock Quay and Quay 15

The Waterfront Bar at Shamrock Quay

Quay 15 is rated No 1 on Trip Adviser, and I know we need to read reviews with intelligence and a pinch of coarsely ground, locally sourced rock salt, but Quay 15 is worth booking. If you can wait for a free Saturday and try their taster menu then you are in for a treat. Some serious young chef’s here that know what they are doing and enjoy working with seasonal, quality produce. Here’s the menu for their next taster menu: http://www.quayfifteen.co.uk/menus/thursday-12th-feb-quay-fifteens-1st-birthday/

Full review will be on the blog later in Spring – as I can’t get in yet either.

hopshikesandbites.blogspot.co.uk

Look out for - New micro brewery opening at the Wool Museum, this fabulous building will open its doors on the 27^th Feb so do give it a go and try their home crafted beers, which you may have already tried at the Dancing Man bar, down the road. The building is worth a visit on its own!

Also, if you have time on your hands there is an interesting photo exhibition on at Southampton Solent University showing the City celebrating 50 years since it was awarded City status by the Queen – it took five years for the petition to succeed. Ends 28^th Feb

Hike or bike? 

  

More info on http://www.discoversouthampton.co.uk

Bike - Join Route 2 and head on to Portsmouth, but maybe stop at Warsash for refreshment?

http://www.gps-routes.co.uk/routes/home.nsf/RoutesLinksCycle/southampton-to-portsmouth-cycle-route

And if you fancy a brief walk round the Old Town before heading to No 4 for the 'all you can eat' brunch then pick up a leaflet on Jane Austen’s trail or do the Old Town walk

http://www.discoversouthampton.co.uk/uploads/media_items/old-town-walk-map.original.pdf

Or the Titanic trail

http://www.discoversouthampton.co.uk/uploads/media_items/titanic-trail-map.original.pdf

No. 8 Gosport

Having survived the Boat Show and been inspired by the plans on the BAR (Ben Ainslie Racing) stand, my thoughts move to a sun drenched, fresh breezed Portsmouth Harbour this July.

Visitors coming to watch the AC45’s race from their HQ in the Camber, might like to consider the nourishing delights that the Rive Gauche offers, in spades.

BAR team in the Solent

There is a life force to Gosport that is seen in the way Alex Thomson strolls up a 30 metre mast, or how Caroline Dinenage MP sends a steely look over to the opposition at Question Time; Gosport produces some fine stars and is fondly dubbed GosVegas by it’s rocking residents.

Converts that move here have made quite a splash and contributed hugely to charity and the community - I'm thinking Tanya Brookfield here (Toe in the Water) and Endurance Swimmer Anna Wardley, with her Five Island Swim Challenge; both raising funds, changing lives and putting smiles on faces.

It's a great place to keep the boat or visit, any time of the year, as there is just so much to do here - sun or rain - museums galore, shops, cinemas, restaurants, lashings of Naval history, both sides of the harbour, but connected fluidly by the super efficient green ferry - £3.10 return, runs from 5.30 till midnight.

Gosport Ferry

Now, to the food....

If you stay at Haslar Marina, marked by the big green Lightship 'Mary Mouse', you have two great choices on-site : 

Haslar Marina 

Hardy's has been run by Sarah Conchie and team for 3 years. They run an efficient ship with a very popular happy hour from 5-7pm from Monday to Thursday, buy one drink get one free. 

A great gathering place for berth holders, those working at Haslar and people dropping by for an early drink before dinner in a convivial setting near the water. 

They have recently launched a supper and wine tasting club, meeting every couple of months with Spain being the first port of call. Berth holder’s receive a 10% discount for parties of four or more.

Food is of very good quality, most popular dishes being the rib eye steaks and home made burger, which changes daily. The chef, Paul Thompson, cooks local fish and steaks quite perfectly. 

Hops choice – the salt n’pepper fish – usually squid, scallops & king prawns – lip smacking!

Hardy's Happy Hour

Their ever popular fish cakes

Trinity's at the Lightship is on the fantastic green landmark at the end of the pontoons - access for non-bertholders is via the gated entrance, buzz the marina office for entry. 

Maria Hodgkins took over the Lightship last spring and along with her inspiring chef Geoff, has completely transformed the ship and the quality of food on this amazing piece of nautical history. Sun decks, providing ever changing views over one of our busiest harbours; bar, breakfast, lunch and dinner – berth holders get 10% discount and the Wardroom is ready to hire for private events.

Most popular dish: the fish and chips

Hops choice: the Haddock Arnold Bennett if it's on the menu, sautéed potatoes properly finished in butter and real puddings like lemon meringue pie.

Open from 11 - 23hrs, but shut in January.

Trinitys at The Lightship 

Haddock Arnold Bennett

If you're moored up at Gosport Marina you have The Boat House Cafe which is not quite as sophisticated as the above but ok for a coffee stop. If you are at Royal Clarence it's not too far to walk to the delights of Gosport central, and most of our favourites are bunched around the ferry area.

Go to Tripadvisor and you’ll find cheekily named TK Snax, at number one. A little diner-cum-takeaway by the ferry that does cheerful Caribbean & Mexican food: pulled pork, goat curry, Belize Tamales and ever popular burritos 

Marten, the chef/proprietor, is married to a Belizean lady who has helped him with his recipes. He doesn’t’t have a drinks license, but he is happy if you Bring Your Own and he has wine glasses under the counter. A hearty red is strongly recommended, or a couple of litres of water!

Curried Goat with fried Plantains

Best Fish & Chips? In Gosport try the greatly neglected Frydays, the big fish ‘n chipper opposite the ferry. The chips are fine, but the fish is very good and BYO is possible here too. 

But top votes go to the Smart Fish Bar towards Lee on the Solent, if you are heading out that way.

We also like Lulu’s Tea Room, conveniently placed opposite Waitrose for a dainty cup of tea and slice of homemade cake – we enjoyed the lavender and orange blossom – cake, not tea.

And then of course there’s the Castle Tavern. The roasts are the jewel in the crown, but everything is good, inexpensive and for hungry yachties comes in enormous portions. The Doombar and Broadside are kept well.

If you want to be on the beach head to The Pebbles on Stokes Bay Road, good views and wine list, but it all comes alive on Wednesday evenings with great tapas and usually a jazz band.

Best Indian is The New Bengal, 27 Stoke Road, the Mecca for the sail training community.

The hike or bike: great cycle routes take bikers safely out to Lee on the Solent and Stokes Bay, there are some good web sites to chose from, but I like Walk, Jog, Run – take a look at:

 http://www.walkjogrun.net/cycling-routes/UK/Hampshire/Gosport/

Here’s a good 12+ mile circular route taking you out to Stubbington via Lee on the Solent and back past Hardway. Plenty of café stops at Lee, including some favourites of ours, The Penguin, The Tea Party, the Tea Room and Laneway Café for good coffee. 

If you get the bug and want to do a charity cycle this summer you could do worse than trying the Hampshire Harbours Route, all for the British Heart Foundation – more info here:

https://www.bhf.org.uk/get-involved/events/bike-rides/hampshire-harbours-bike-ride

Contacts:

Haslar Marina 023 9260 1201

Hardy’s 023 9258 8810

Trinty’s on the Lightship 023 9250 3387

TK Snax 023 9217 0208

The Pebbles 023 9251 0789

The New Bengal 023 9258 3722

Smart Fish Bar 023 9255 1166

No. 6 Yarmouth

Isle of Wight

The Island is not big, just 23 miles across, but there is too much going on to cover in one Bite so this is Act 1 and we'll visit the Bembridge area for Act 2, when it’s warmed up a bit.

Yarmouth is everyone's favourite sleepover with institutions such as Saltys and the George playing their part, but there are some dynamic new kids on the block so let's stretch our legs and get out there.

Yarmouth Sunset

First, a caffeine pit stop at PO41, once the old post office, just opposite The George. Perfect for sleepy heads coming in off their boats or the ferry. Elaine runs a buzzing, cosy, top coffee joint, from 7.30 – 4pm every day, bless her! Union Coffee – fab.

Elaine at PO41

The bike 

The Freshwater Flyer is the 6 mile flat ex railway line towards Freshwater, an easy hike enjoying glimpses of the Yar through the trees. Hire a bike and you can extend your route to go out towards Alum and Totland Bays for a 12 mile circular route, more info from John at Wight Cycle Hire

The route

When you arrive at Freshwater the options open up, coffee stop, light lunch?

As I'm heading on to Tennyson Down I turn right at the sea front and head up the hill to The Piano as I've heard great things about Sam and Kimmy buying the old shop that has been a piano, music and stationery shop, come PO through it's lyrical past, tuning Queen Victoria's ol’ piano and selling Tennyson sheet music; it now serves great coffee, mezze and light snacks with live piano sessions most weekends. www.thepianocafe.co.uk  01983 472874

Top time to visit - Sunday lunch when the ivories are being tinkled.

Hops choice - the hand made Florentines with a coffee or Jan's tart of the day – being goats cheese, thyme and Island sun dried tomato when I visited. Coffee by Island Coffee

The Piano

The Tart of the day

Live Music

 The other option is the ever popular End of the line cafe – 01983 752870. Serves great quiches, jacket potatoes and wonderful cheese scones. Great value and always busy.

The hike:

If I wasn't cycling I would walk back through the charming village of Freshwater to the Red Lion, right next to the church. Cosy, good beer and reliable pub food. Beware mobile users - turn it off before entering or they'll fine you!  www.redlion-freshwater.co.uk  01983 754925                                           

Then cross the old causeway and take the path back to Yarmouth – see map for choice of route.

The Red Lion

The route

But I'm saving room for our review and coming back from my trip back into Yarmouth I pull up at the first carriage available at Off the Rails

The review

Off the Rails opened in the summer, after local interior designers opened up this wonderful sunny space that was the disused station. Wight Cycle Hire is located at the end of the building making this the perfect start for your island cycling adventure. Overlooking Thorley Brook wetland with the glass doors fully open to the November sunshine, and the wood burner a glow, what a joyful stop off this is!

Philippe Blot who runs the place is full of ideas, from Orient Express evenings to some more intimate dining experiences, bringing a bit of cinematic drama to the station in the winter months – so get your ‘smoking’ out of the wardrobe, polish the pearls and watch this space!  

There is a good mix already seated. A handful of well behaved dogs (they have their own menu) and more walkers than cyclists today – but this is mid November. I grab a table near the woodburner that looks out over the golden marshes and along the banquettes upholstered in BR green. Suitcases stored up in the luggage racks give me a warm Hogwarts Express feel. Now, let’s look at the specials. Immediately I am attracted to the Gally Bagger Rarebit, with blackberry, beetroot and sweet red onion chutney or how about the Warm Corn-fed chicken salad with pesto, sun blushed tomatoes, roasted peppers and crispy chicken skin? I’m told by the party at the next table that OTR figs stuffed with goat’s cheese is formidable, but not on today, so actually plump for the Signalman’s stew of slow braised lamb with spring vegetables and spices, delicious with warm ciabbata (all £8) and as I didn’t try the Rarebit, Philippe brought me a taster of the Isle of White Cheese’s own Gally Bagger, a golden, nutty tasting, hard cheese, that apparently means Scarecrow in Island tongue.

There are some lovely fresh drink options, the homemade pink lemonade is a tart hit for me and I like the addition of the ‘pichet’ option on the wine list, common in most French eating establishments – allowing you to try more interesting wines without buying the whole bottle. The cocktail list will have to wait until the sun has gone over the signal post, but there may be time for the Strawberry and Pimms Eton Mess or the Chocolate Fondant (all £5.50) 

www.offtherailsyarmouth.co.uk  01983 761600

Off the rails

The View

Signalman's Stew

It’s still sunny outside as I leave to head back into Yarmouth to check out what’s new in Harwoods, surely one of the most upmarket hardware shops around? In fact there is a great choice of retail treats for those visiting sailors, from antiques, to art, to quirky clothing.

Just time to pop into the George to sit by the fire with a cup of tea and look at the afternoon tea menu 

The George Illustrated by Connell & Todd

Best of the rest:

Wightwood Pizza van - hibernates from Nov - April, but can be found in Freshwater Bay every Friday from Easter 'till November - photo -  07955 379642

The Pizza Van

Best baker - up for award this month - The Island Bakers. In Yarmouth you can buy it in the deli - best buy, the sourdough and some amazingly crisp and buttery croissants

The Island Bakers

Best coffee - PO41 Already mentioned above - coffee emporium in the old post office opposite The George. They use Union Coffee, the Revelation, for those who care.

Cosiest pub in Yarmouth? The King's Head - by the ferry terminal

Thanks to: 

Wightlink Ferries www.wightlink.co.uk

www.visitisleofwight.co.uk

www.wightcyclehire.co.uk

Best tweeters: @MattandCat  @TasteIW  @yarmouthiow  @ONTyarmouth  @BiteTheWight

Credit to Connell & Todd for illustration of the George, Yarmouth. www.connellandtodd.com

Map of Island cycle route: http://www.sunseaandcycling.com/Files/Documents/route1.pdf

No 5. Falmouth

The World's third largest natural, deep water harbour and a healthy commercial port to boot. 

Deep into Cornwall, with wonderful creeks that are a pirates dream, beautiful beaches, tropical gardens and more eating choices than you can shake a fish slice at! 

I visited during the annual Oyster Fest, which opens the season in October, and draws a wide crowd to enjoy the food and music. This year’s top performers were the Fisherman’s Friends and the Oggy Men. Date for 2015 15-18^th October – you heard it here first, book your berth!

Map of Falmouth Estuary 

Now this is not a great area for cycling to my preferred haunts, as the roads are narrow and twisty, so this month I'll simply list top spots and one safe walk.

In Falmouth itself there is a huge choice of places to eat, with fun cafes competing with more serious restaurants, most enjoying glorious views over the Fal Estuary or out to sea. Quality is high and local produce well respected. A joyful town with friendly inhabitants and home to Rustler Yachts, of course, surely producing some of the prettiest boats around?

The Review.

Rick Stein's Fish offers some great light bites, ideal if you like to try lots of different flavours and get bored with raw oysters. The other advantage of this place is that you can usually get in - they don't take reservations - and I haven't been turned away, whereas I will have to wait to try The Wheelhouse which was highly recommended, so try it if you can.

Most popular plate is definitely the fish & chips but through the Oyster Fest they add some groovy 'specials' to the menu and I had to try them –

The Oysters

The Menu

First off - tempura oysters with sesame seeds & lime, light as a puff of air with a crisp soft chew. Still room so next I tried the trio of Parmesan cream oysters, interesting, but not as good as the tempura. Washed down with good house Muscadet 

Hops choice - all the starters, salt n pepper prawns and chilli squid. Tel 01841 532700

Top Veggie choice - The Wildebeest, 13 Arwenack St, 01326 210602

Wildbeest Interior

Top for Seafood/Crab - The Wheel House, 01326 318050 - need to book, they run 2 sittings. Situated down Upton Slip - these guys are so busy they don’t even have a sign! 

The Wheel House

Hottest Coffee - Espressini, there’s a new tiny branch opposite the Stable but the main hub is on central Killigrew St. Serious about coffee choice and a great little menu.

The Coffee

The Menu

Best Bread - Baker Tom - this artisan baker has 4 bases now, and you could do worse than coming into town from the boat and loading up with fresh breads, a few saffron buns, some Cornish cream and cheese from the deli and head off for a picnic. 01326 318221

Baker Tom's Bread

Fastest Fish & Chips - Harbour Lights – on the quay near the Stable – eat in or take out.

Beyond Falmouth

Top pub - Pandora Inn - Wonderful setting and really good daily specials. Ruby Red Aged beef from the Lizard caught my eye as I was all fished out, but my neighbours always come for the mussels as they say the cream and butter sauce is first class.

Their most popular plate is the local catch of the day Fish & Ships or the Pandora Fish Pie

Like their ‘Wine of month’ option too.

Tel 01326 372678

Moules

The View

Maybe coming by boat would be safer then those narrow roads - or boat to Mylor Bridge & then walk. Parking is tight on sunny days and weekends.

Best afternoon tea?

Penryn - Miss Pepperpot’s cafe at Jubilee Wharf as I had heard great things about their homemade cakes. They embrace local and epicycle, see crockery. Dabara Bakers (Truro) and Origin Coffee from Helston.

PH - Peach and almond cake with a pot of Clipper tea (£4.50) a crunchy sugar topped moist cake, with big chunks of peach along with juice almonds with a decent bite - delicious snack for walker!

Best cakes/ bohemian experience -  Potager, Constantine

Again, this is no calm bike ride and I think you would be better walking over the fields and then catching the bus home or catch a lift with any friendly folks in Falmouth heading towards Constantine, to stock up on eccentric booze in the Post Office.

Potager Glass House is just before Constantine and is well worth a visit - a dream of a working garden rediscovered, that has recently opened up it's hand built (by Mark, local boat builder) greenhouse on Fridays and weekends. Wonderful atmosphere. Very happy families either playing ping pong in another glasshouse or eating cakes and drinking tea, or resting after a session in the garden – Friday helpers get rewarded with a cream tea! Interesting Breton baker Awen makes all the breads from sour dough base, with a very interesting long stir and overnight prove method. Come and spend some time here, open from breakfast till tea time. 01326 341258

PH – coffee, syrup cake

Inside Glass House

Coffee Syrup Cake

The hike – Flushing to Mylor Bridge - 5 miles there and back

This is a beautiful walk following the coastal path from Flushing (see link below to start from Falmouth) to Mylor Bridge with a welcome café ‘Castaways’ at the end.

01326 377710

http://falmouthbids.s3.amazonaws.com/1282923256_952.pdf

Falmouth Tourism www.falmouth.co.uk with info on the all important ferry services

Maritime Museum www.nmmc.co.uk

Electric bikes at Penryn – Batribike.com – Peter Williams 07966 425774

http://www.falmouth.co.uk/see-and-do/cycling

Link for walks - http://www.falmouth.co.uk/see-and-do/walking

And Potager sells some lovely (tiny) walking maps that take you on 2-7 mile walks from the gardens.