No. 6 Yarmouth

Isle of Wight

The Island is not big, just 23 miles across, but there is too much going on to cover in one Bite so this is Act 1 and we'll visit the Bembridge area for Act 2, when it’s warmed up a bit.

Yarmouth is everyone's favourite sleepover with institutions such as Saltys and the George playing their part, but there are some dynamic new kids on the block so let's stretch our legs and get out there.

Yarmouth Sunset

First, a caffeine pit stop at PO41, once the old post office, just opposite The George. Perfect for sleepy heads coming in off their boats or the ferry. Elaine runs a buzzing, cosy, top coffee joint, from 7.30 – 4pm every day, bless her! Union Coffee – fab.

Elaine at PO41

The bike 

The Freshwater Flyer is the 6 mile flat ex railway line towards Freshwater, an easy hike enjoying glimpses of the Yar through the trees. Hire a bike and you can extend your route to go out towards Alum and Totland Bays for a 12 mile circular route, more info from John at Wight Cycle Hire

The route

When you arrive at Freshwater the options open up, coffee stop, light lunch?

As I'm heading on to Tennyson Down I turn right at the sea front and head up the hill to The Piano as I've heard great things about Sam and Kimmy buying the old shop that has been a piano, music and stationery shop, come PO through it's lyrical past, tuning Queen Victoria's ol’ piano and selling Tennyson sheet music; it now serves great coffee, mezze and light snacks with live piano sessions most weekends. www.thepianocafe.co.uk  01983 472874

Top time to visit - Sunday lunch when the ivories are being tinkled.

Hops choice - the hand made Florentines with a coffee or Jan's tart of the day – being goats cheese, thyme and Island sun dried tomato when I visited. Coffee by Island Coffee

The Piano

The Tart of the day

Live Music

 The other option is the ever popular End of the line cafe – 01983 752870. Serves great quiches, jacket potatoes and wonderful cheese scones. Great value and always busy.

The hike:

If I wasn't cycling I would walk back through the charming village of Freshwater to the Red Lion, right next to the church. Cosy, good beer and reliable pub food. Beware mobile users - turn it off before entering or they'll fine you!  www.redlion-freshwater.co.uk  01983 754925                                           

Then cross the old causeway and take the path back to Yarmouth – see map for choice of route.

The Red Lion

The route

But I'm saving room for our review and coming back from my trip back into Yarmouth I pull up at the first carriage available at Off the Rails

The review

Off the Rails opened in the summer, after local interior designers opened up this wonderful sunny space that was the disused station. Wight Cycle Hire is located at the end of the building making this the perfect start for your island cycling adventure. Overlooking Thorley Brook wetland with the glass doors fully open to the November sunshine, and the wood burner a glow, what a joyful stop off this is!

Philippe Blot who runs the place is full of ideas, from Orient Express evenings to some more intimate dining experiences, bringing a bit of cinematic drama to the station in the winter months – so get your ‘smoking’ out of the wardrobe, polish the pearls and watch this space!  

There is a good mix already seated. A handful of well behaved dogs (they have their own menu) and more walkers than cyclists today – but this is mid November. I grab a table near the woodburner that looks out over the golden marshes and along the banquettes upholstered in BR green. Suitcases stored up in the luggage racks give me a warm Hogwarts Express feel. Now, let’s look at the specials. Immediately I am attracted to the Gally Bagger Rarebit, with blackberry, beetroot and sweet red onion chutney or how about the Warm Corn-fed chicken salad with pesto, sun blushed tomatoes, roasted peppers and crispy chicken skin? I’m told by the party at the next table that OTR figs stuffed with goat’s cheese is formidable, but not on today, so actually plump for the Signalman’s stew of slow braised lamb with spring vegetables and spices, delicious with warm ciabbata (all £8) and as I didn’t try the Rarebit, Philippe brought me a taster of the Isle of White Cheese’s own Gally Bagger, a golden, nutty tasting, hard cheese, that apparently means Scarecrow in Island tongue.

There are some lovely fresh drink options, the homemade pink lemonade is a tart hit for me and I like the addition of the ‘pichet’ option on the wine list, common in most French eating establishments – allowing you to try more interesting wines without buying the whole bottle. The cocktail list will have to wait until the sun has gone over the signal post, but there may be time for the Strawberry and Pimms Eton Mess or the Chocolate Fondant (all £5.50) 

www.offtherailsyarmouth.co.uk  01983 761600

Off the rails

The View

Signalman's Stew

It’s still sunny outside as I leave to head back into Yarmouth to check out what’s new in Harwoods, surely one of the most upmarket hardware shops around? In fact there is a great choice of retail treats for those visiting sailors, from antiques, to art, to quirky clothing.

Just time to pop into the George to sit by the fire with a cup of tea and look at the afternoon tea menu 

The George Illustrated by Connell & Todd

Best of the rest:

Wightwood Pizza van - hibernates from Nov - April, but can be found in Freshwater Bay every Friday from Easter 'till November - photo -  07955 379642

The Pizza Van

Best baker - up for award this month - The Island Bakers. In Yarmouth you can buy it in the deli - best buy, the sourdough and some amazingly crisp and buttery croissants

The Island Bakers

Best coffee - PO41 Already mentioned above - coffee emporium in the old post office opposite The George. They use Union Coffee, the Revelation, for those who care.

Cosiest pub in Yarmouth? The King's Head - by the ferry terminal

Thanks to: 

Wightlink Ferries www.wightlink.co.uk

www.visitisleofwight.co.uk

www.wightcyclehire.co.uk

Best tweeters: @MattandCat  @TasteIW  @yarmouthiow  @ONTyarmouth  @BiteTheWight

Credit to Connell & Todd for illustration of the George, Yarmouth. www.connellandtodd.com

Map of Island cycle route: http://www.sunseaandcycling.com/Files/Documents/route1.pdf

No 3. The Hamble

I really like the Hamble. Having spent many happy years at Port Hamble before progressing to a river mooring, I like the jostle of the place and the fact that it has some very loyal residents that wouldn't live anywhere else. Nope, not for all the rice in China - as the grainy bit in Hamble-le-Rice actually means small hill, not the epicentre for pudding or risotto.

So here we are, on a gloriously hot day, so have bought more ice from the marina to keep the cold box solid, before heading up the cobbled high street for the best coffee in town.

Bonne Bouche Deli has been here for many years, but just 8 weeks ago Georgie took over, and extended the place so you can eat, drink coffee, read the papers, inside as well as out. She serves Monmouth coffee for those who care about such things and the cheerful team will prepare fresh sandwiches to eat in or take on a picnic

Tasting Notes

+ Monmouth coffee and sitting out on the terrace, in the shade, watching the World go by

Tel 023 8045 5771

Bonne Bouche Delicatessen & Coffee House

Interior of Bonne Bouche

Opposite Bonne Bouche is The Victory. Now the Hamble has it's fair share of pubs per square footage and when I asked an old mate who has lived here all his life, what his top choices would be for eating out he said 'River Rat poshest, Dolce Vita best atmosphere and the Bugle best pub food'.But I know a team who do the Hamble River series who always go to the Victory - simply for its home-made pie. It's always on the menu, but on Wednesdays you get a choice of pie, mash, peas and gravy for just £7.50, and I think the steak & ale is probably my favourite.

The Victory

Now it's getting hotter and I want to catch the ferry to get over to Warsash before I turn into a puddle. The pink ferry runs every day of the year except Christmas Day. It costs £1 each way for adults, £1.75 if you take your bike and 75 p for kids.

The Pink Ferry

So walking past the Royal Southern YC you follow the signs for the ferry and in a jiffy you are crossing the quarter mile distance that saves you a 5 mile round river walk - that we're going to do. It's shady on the other side!

The path along the river bank on the eastern shore of the Hamble is less built up than the Western side and as you make your way up towards Bursledon the views of of busy river and wildlife are joyful. As I approach Universal Marina though I see an interesting silver boathouse amid the trees and realise that I’m fast approaching the place that everyone is talking about. Come on in and let’s see what Bistro 8 is all about.

Entrance to Bistro 8

Amazing. Urban silver grey exterier, with a woven jacket on the land entrance, but boat shed grey from the river path entrance. A leafy terrace, space for the kids, kennels for the dogs, very cool. It is a tad unexpected to see a suited, professional greet you at the door, but the staff are all very pleasant, and if the drinks weren’t arriving quite as quickly as the heat of the day asked, they were just getting to grips with a brand new menu.

Leafy Terrace

The menu is simple, the wine list good, packed with all your favourites. Quite a few people were just drinking coffee, reading the papers, meeting friends. The gas fired pizza oven has been built for speed but I’m told the pizzas taste great, and top dish of the day was the clams, chorizo, samphir, herbs & wine, cooked in the clay oven.

Refreshing glass of Rose 

Char-grilled peaches with amaretto sweet lime marscapone

The lightly dusted squid with homemade tartare was light as popcorn and perfect for lunch, if you wanted to try out the char-grilled peaches with amaretto sweet lime marscapone – perfect!
I had a glass of the Rimauresq Cote de Provence as it was 28 degrees and rosé weather and the three items set me back £21, so you won’t be coming here every day for lunch, but what a perfect oasis of calm amongst the heat and bustle of the Hamble on a busy work day. A great place for an early evening cocktail – I spied both my best rum and favourite gin behind the bar – will have to come back with Paul Antrobus for a tasting! PS Do visit the loos. 

Tasting Notes

 + location, style, food and the loosiles, approx 40 mins

 Walk – from the ferry in Warsash just under 2 miles, approx 40 mins

Tel: 01489 854259

Now, back to the path, if you carry on up and cross Bursledon Bridge you come back over the river on the side of the Jolly Sailor, 1.4 miles, 28 mins. After refreshments here you carry on back towards Hamble, following the footpath signs, about 3.2 miles and just over an hours walking.

You will have earnt a good cup of tea and slice of cake by now, then time to relax on the boat before considering whether to cook, or visit Dolce Vita or the River Rat tonight?


Useful Information:

Dolce Vita – an established Hamble favourite, reliable, fun Italian – 023 8045 4567
River Rat – wine shop by day, restaurant by night, lunch just Frid & Sats – 023 8045 7801
(have yet to eat here so will report back – let me know what you think penny@thephysicalpr.co.uk)
Banana Wharf – I know it’s a chain, but has a great position and is open from 8.30 at weekends for breakfast. If you can park it’s a great place to meet friends for a drink. 023 8045 6622
The Bugle – best pub food in Hamble according to locals. Nice position 023 8045 3000
The Victory – best pie in town, steak & ale or chicken & leak the favourites 023 8045 3105 
Hamble/Warsash Ferry 023 8045 4512

www.hamble.net/WP/general/home-page

No 2. Lymington

This issue we moor up in Lymington - taking a buoy off the busy Town Quay to make the most of the Saturday market, shops and pubs. This lovely Georgian town made it's money from salt panning back in the day and press ganging at night - so watch out!

This month we look at a couple of options, one for the gourmand and one for a fun family Spanish lunch, plus the optional hike or bike routes to take you somewhere off the watery track.

Lymington Quay

So we start by stumbling across Fine Food 4 Sail, tucked into a corner of Berthon's boatyard, opposite Force Four chandlery. It’s a deli-come-wine bar specialising in ‘hot rocks’ where you can cook your own local steak, lamb, scallops and prawns on volcanic stone. The trick here is that the chef sources the finest ingredients (hence the name) so the steak is melt in the mouth and you can chose to have 3 scallops, 2 prawns and a lamb cutlet, if that is what you hanker for. The owner, Paul Bayntun, an ex ad man, makes a genial host and can often be found looking after the rosé or showing photos of fish recently caught on the huge Mac on the bar.

The Deli at Fine Food 4Sail

Interior of Fine Food 4Sail

They are open from 9 am serving breakfasts and can cater for big groups in a private room. Many locals and those working in the yard use this as their office, there is wifi, good coffee and a lovely ambience created by the New England style décor – relaxed.

In good weather they will throw a barbeque round the back, and you need to remember that this is the way in after 9pm, to keep the neighbours happy.

Tasting notes

Central Lymington – closest to the Quay & Berthon.

(15 mins walk from Yacht Haven)

+ good choice of food/ quality ingredients & good wine list

Tel: 01590 677 705               Opening Hours: 09.00 - 23.00hrs

Most popular plate – courgette & feta fritters, tempura battered lemon sole & hot rocks

If you’ve got all the kids aboard and they love churros - who doesn't – why not wander up the High Street to La Vina, a fun Spanish restaurant that does three tapas for £9.95.

Tel: 01590 674 010             Opening Hours: 09.00 – last orders 21.30 every day of week

Most popular plate tapas – we love the chipirones and the churros to share for £6.25. Try the Sangria of the day.

Bon appetite 

Churros

The hike - out to Keyhaven via the coastal path - lunch at The Gun Inn, or take a picnic. 

Tel: 01590 642391

Distance: 3+ miles.           Time: 1hr 30                Info: www.lymington/org/solentway3.html

The Gun Inn

The Quay at Keyhaven 

The bike – take the train to Brockenhurst and hire a bike from Cycle Experience just by the station. You then have two options, cycle through the woods, some 4 miles to the pretty hamlet of Bank, where the Oak Inn will serve you a very good lunch.

         Distance 4 miles each way - nearly all off road

Tel: 023 8028 2350                Opens at 12:00 (children under 10 are not allowed in the pub after 18:00)

Most popular plate: catch of the day, or the roast peppers stuffed with feta

Or go upmarket and either cycle (or better still walk - and save your bucks for lunch) the mile distance to The Pig, Brockenhurst. A wonderful country house hotel with mouth watering kitchen garden and spa - a proper treat if you are celebrating. The Pig is little sister, never runt of the litter, to Limewood House in Lyndhurst, bringing the likes of Clint Eastwood & Jamie Cullom to Lyndhurst High Street, to the delight of the locals. You can have a simple lunch on the terrace and enjoy their flatbreads from the wood fired oven or go the whole hog and eat in their delightful greenhouse styled conservatory.

Tel: 01590 622354                                Open all day:  flatbreads 12:00-17:00hrs  

Most popular plate: the flat breads on the terrace. Quail egg & home cured hams

The Pig

The wood-fired Pizza Oven

The Dining Room

Feedback request

I would like to hear your views on the Haven, the bistro with perfect views over the Solent to Yarmouth, as I do not have room to review this time but would like to in the future - so let me know your thoughts please as there are many rumblings locally since the re-fit and the involvement of the endearing Chris Evans.

Please send to penny@thephysicalpr.co.uk , thank you.

Useful Links:

www.nationalrail.co.uk - Lymington Pier to Brockenhurst leaves .29 & .59 past hour £3.30

www.cyclex.co.uk        - CycleExperience         01590 624204 hire from £16 for the day

www.lymington.org      - great site for local info/ walks etc

No 1. Portland & West Dorset

Penny Hopkins hunts out some special places to eat, whilst hiking the shores of Portland

Portland has an excellent, well equipped marina set amidst the stunning scenery of Dorset’s Jurassic coast. If you haven't visited yet, why not plan a trip leaving enough time to sample the excellent cafes and restaurants in the area.

We’ll start at Portland Marina itself, as the newly opened Harbour Lights waterfront bar & restaurant is here. Nigel & Ysanne Williams are serving quality, locally sourced fish and meat with weekly guest beers and a decent range of wine. A good choice of smaller dishes for lunch, like their Blue Cheese Stack (field mushroom with melted blue cheese on ciabatta) and daily specials, in pies, sausages and pasta and local fish of the day in cider batter.

Open from 10am for breakfast every day. The young chef makes a good eggs Benedict. 

 + great views, quality food       

- not open early enough for some, only filter coffee ☹     

                                
                      Tel 01305 823000                              www.harbourlights.co                            

Most popular plate – the daily catch fish & chips and the homemade burger.  

PH choice – the panaché of fish with a glass of Pinot Grigio Rosé, Mannara – perfect when the sun’s out

panaché of fish

If you want to stretch your legs, or are hunting out an early breakfast, head south to the Blue Fish, (about 15 min walk) a well established, popular fish restaurant run by chef/owner Luciano Da Silva who offers a good breakfast from 9, but do come back and try the local scallops if you can, on the sunny terrace with a chilled glass to hand. Great homemade burgers, steaks and bangers & mash for the carnivores. Local, sustainable produce, hands-on chef who knows what he’s doing.  
15 min walk

+ skilled cooking, great price range, very popular

- shut on Mon & Tues, complicated opening hours

                Tel 01305 822991 for opening times www.thebluefishrestaurant.com

Most popular plate moules, frites & glass of wine for £12
PH choice – tricky, depends what’s on the board…….wine – inspired Marlborough of the day!

The Area

  Luciano doing a scallop demo at Fish & Ships 14 at Portland this April

                              

The coastal path from Abbotsbury to Hive Beach

                                                    

So, the sun is out and you know the sea will be blue if you could just peep over the mound of pebbles that is Chesil Beach, so head north along the causeway to the Chesil Wildlife Centre, a well designed stone and glass building, where Todd & Louise Moffat are running Taste. A great little cafe with views to the rise of Chesil Beach and back towards the Fleet. School children ebb and flow during the day and the cafe serves breakfast, brunch, lunch and afternoon tea, and you are welcome for just a tea or latte – which is very good and comes from Clifton Coffee. Lots of special events, tapas, pudding nights, held monthly. No reservations.
 22 min walk

 +  great spot/ stop off walkers & cyclists, good for the kids  

 -  doesn’t open till 10

                 Tel 01305 206196                               www.tasterestaurant.co.uk

Most popular dish – anything with the local crab – from sandwiches to fritters, but it has to be Portland!

Ok, this is a lot of chat about food, so how about putting on those trainers that are hidden in the locker next to the beer?  Portland has 2 prisons, a quarry, and the famous lighthouse at its furthest point and a wild 9+ mile circular walk, pick up a map at the marina and make sure you time the walk to coincide with lunch or tea at the Jailhouse Café situated on your left as you climb up the eastern slopes (signed) Go through the impressive tunnel leading to HMP The Verne and past the prison up to the top. The café has stunning views over the Jurassic coastline. Home made soups, cakes and puddings and daily specials are all prepared and served by the resident offenders of HMP/YOI Portland as part of a successful programme to reduce re-offending by teaching new, real skills; an admirable community project. 
2 miles uphill 50 mins

                Tel 01305 825186                               www.jailhousecafe.co.uk

The Crab House is a bit of an institution whose national reviews may put you off, but is a very relaxed indoor/ outdoor café serving the freshest of fish and shellfish from as close to the plate as Nigel Bloxham can manage. This unique coastline, with the 8 mile long Fleet lagoon stretching behind the big brother of Chesil Beach provides a perfect, clean nursing ground for the sweet, plump little Portland Pearl oyster which the Crab House farms, in new wooden crates, no rusty rumble on the taste buds anymore, ask Nigel to tell you more – he will ☺ Relax in the random garden, share a table with new friends, borrow one of the hats if it gets too bright and enjoy the ozone.
40 min walk or No1 bus

+ the food/ choice of local fish & tender steaks, wine list

- gets busy, can’t actually see the sea

                         Tel 01305 788867 – best to book   www.crabhousecafe.co.uk

PH  Italian oysters with pesto and parmesan and fresh flour dusted dabs. To drink, the Picpoul de Pinet.

Crispy Squid Balls

The Garden

     

For locals and regular visitors to Portland Marina there are some good choices for travelling further west, either by boat or bike or a mix of hike and bus taking in the South Coast Path. The car is also an option!

Why would I do that I hear you say - to visit Hive Beach Café, of course, up near Bridport, or dare I say…Broadchurch? And yes, David Tennant has been spotted recently! This wonderful café on National Trust land has grown like Topsy and is right on the beach. Serving excellent home cooked food, again, based on the bounty of the county. Mostly fish but also great cakes and very good coffee, it’s always busy
They even have their own cookbook and a deal for silver surfers on Wednesdays.  
17.3 miles – 5hrs 45

 + very good on twitter, useful info @HiveBeachCafe                            

 -  it gets very busy, the locals in the queue begged me not to write about HB

                       Tel 01308 897070                            www.hivebeachcafe.co.uk 


PH – the monkfish or langoustines, a swim and very good coffee, which they source themselves.

The View from Hive Beach Cafe

Hive Beach Cafe

Langoustine                              

Tempura Hake @HiveBeachCafe

My other favourite stop off is Downhouse Farm, walk up from West Bay if you’ve left the boat there, or come over the hill from Abbotsbury (9 mile walk – bus home) or, indeed, come by car and enjoy the stunning drive. This family of coastal, organic farmers are joyful; tending their sea swept herds of Aberdeen Angus, Badger Faced Welsh Mountain sheep and free range pork from their Large White x Duroc pigs – buy and take home.

                   Tel 01308 421232                                    www.downhousefarm.org

PH – it has to be the cream tea after hiking over from Abbotsbury 9m (from Portland 7 hrs – 21m) you’ve earned it!

Useful Travel Information:

Bus X53 runs from Weymouth to Exeter and is useful for South Coast Path walkers

Bus 1(Weymouth to Southwell) & 501 (Weymouth to Portland Bill) Portland.

Weyline Taxis 01305 777777

www.southwestcoastpath.com/jcbus

www.travelinesw.com 0871 200 22 33

www.marshwoodtrails.co.uk – electric bikes, lots of fun & good for hills - 07796 135256

www.jurassictrailscyclehire.co.uk 01305 836428

(Originally written for All at Sea)