Bite 15 Cowes, Isle of Wight. Words and pictures by Penny Hopkins

The Cowes Classics come to town ahead of Cowes Week. Photo Credit Paul Wyeth

As Portsmouth Harbour calms down with the departure of the dynamic AC teams to Gothenburg our rumbling tummies cry out for sustenance and carbs to survive the week that is Cowes.

We follow the glorious Js into Cowes as they enter the Solent to dip their formidable masts to the Royal Yacht Squadron in its Bicentenary Year. I come via the jolly Red Jet, passing Elenaora as we dock and revel in the news that five Js will be seen racing here this summer. See www.aamcowesweek.co.uk

Now many of you will have your favourite haunts in Cowes, built up over years of fun, and I'm not going to begin to rate the many yacht clubs in Cowes but just list Best Bites top mouthfuls

Todays top favourites are: the Coast Bar and the Mess Canteen

A lighter breakfast at Coast if you need to leave space for lunch

I start at Coast Bar, passing a busy Tiffins on the way as I want to see how many people are eating breakfast at 10.30 in the morning - the lucky skivers! I'm not disappointed; two families, a couple of single gents checking the papers and an attractive table of French yachtsmen fill the charming open room, with long bar, fresh flowers and open brickwork that holds a huge black board with the breakfast specials marked up - an impressive list. Breakfast is an important meal, we know this, but in Cowes it could well be the yard stick you are measured by, that grinding and spinny flying being hungry work!

The Coast Full English at £6.95 is top dog here, good local bacon and sausage, real mushrooms plus black pudding. Eggs Benedict at £6.50 and eggs anyhow on toast at £4.95, toast and jam £2.50. Jam by Tiptree, coffee by Hampshire based Mozzo

Delightful ambience, helpful, friendly team, I'll be back later to check out the wood fired pizza oven that has just been lit and to see the lunch specials - these guys get through a lot of chalk!

 

Above Coast Bar is one of Cowes favourite Italians, Tonino's, traditional and reliable, and in the revered Peter Cumberlidge's top 10, say no more. But, we can't go there now. Passing Tiffins again, more people on the terrace enjoying their Lavazza and bacon baguettes, I note they do crew hampers.

Well Bread Company - will definitely try the croissants next time

On a mission I pass the Well Bread Company. Attractive, large loaves stacked in the window, big sharing table inside but most people were outside in the sun. This should be Hop's heaven as I love a good bakery and to enjoy a decent coffee (they import Noble Bean) whilst sampling their Vienoisserie should be my Nirvana - but it seems hot and bothered in here, staff are harried, and I don't linger as I haven't reached my second favourite yet.

 

Mess Canteen is a welcoming tunnel of a cafe, cosy seating in the snug at the back and convivial team smiling at the counter. Blackboards abound here too, and as the specials run out they get wiped out, no microwaves used here, stuff cooked fresh and when it’s gone, it’s gone. Local producers are listed, tea & coffee is from Clifton. The girls in the AAM Cowes Week Office love this place, and I see Matt & Cat's bright green sticker on the window, further reassurance.

Best Bites here include the tempura soft shell crab burger (when they can catch the little nippers), the fish cakes and for a quick lunch the Croque Madame. Iced coffee and I’m happy here.

 

The Messy blackboard

 But must visit Moocow, just off the main drag and with its own Greek Island style bright white sparkle, a sunny terrace, and all shiny orange, super clean calm inside. I want to try the vegetable tempura here as I’ve heard it’s fab, but in a snap of terrible judgement I go for the aubergine & halumi stack. It looks fantastic, but sadly tastes of very little and the generous slices of cheese are too thick to crisp at the edges, so make for some energetic chewing – a shame, but my fault probably, just too healthy for me and I look longingly at the calamari and baked fish in paper. I’m going to come back with a small gang of grazers and work through the menu as it all reads and looks a dream.

Note: Ladies Night 13 Aug, DJ and cocktails on the terrace, but closed 14 & 15 – great for private functions

Moocow's aubergine & halumi stack

On my re-visit to the Coast Bar, the place is full, both rooms are buzzing, the terrace full. Again, a good mix - business lunches, three generation families, couples and dogs. Happy eaters and drinkers, the pizza oven is delivering beautifully charred bottoms in minutes.

    

BB choice pizza with garlic & thyme slow roast mushrooms, prosciutto cotto and mascarpone, followed by lemon posset. Other favourites are the pan fried sea bass and the meatballs were flying out of the kitchen too. Good wine list, the Chablis on the black board was perfect.

Breaking news: Harbour Kitchen has just opened next to the Food Hamper, the second string to the Coast Bar, but here they will serve less formal, faster street food, with 2 bars across 2 floors. Open in time for Cowes Week and run by Harry Joubert, open 12am -11pm, longer at weekends. Try it and let me know.

Get away from it all at the convivial Lifeboat at East Cowes Marina

For a bit of peace & quiet: head over to East Cowes to get away from the crowds and enjoy the sunny terrace at the Lifeboat whilst watching the circus on the other side

   

Happy sailing at Cowes Week 2015 - photo by Mike Townshend

Contacts:

www.cowes.co.uk  

www.aamcowesweek.co.uk

The Coast Bar      01983 298574     15 Shooters Hill – best to book, especially weekends/ Sun lunch

Mess Canteen     01983 280083     63 High Street – will do private functions for 40+ don’t take bookings

Moocow                 01983 200750     55 Cross St - great decor, art and mezze

Tiffins                     01983 292310     takeaways, crew packs, good breakfasts

Cowes Tandoori  01983 296710     Every Tuesday 3 course meal for £10.95 + no corkage fee

Tonino’s                01983 298464     8-9 Shooters Hill - Cheerful Italian

Best Bites traveled courtesy of Red Jet, the fastest way to West Cowes. See timetables: www.redfunnel.co.uk 
Thanks also go to Marina at Clearline Comms and Amy at Carswell Gould

               

Bite 14 - The Louis Vuitton America's Cup World Series comes to town - Portsmouth Harbour

The America’s Cup comes to town 

Words and pictures by Penny Hopkins

Old Portsmouth & Southsea

Photo credit Land Rover BAR Press Office

Many thousands of us will be heading to Southsea Common on the 24 – 26^th July where food, fun and frolicks will play second fiddle to the big screens showing the nip and tuck that is the America’s Cup in the breathtaking AC45s

To shore oneself up here are a few pointers from the Best Bite team, conveniently all just a coupla streets back from the common, in the Indy food mecca that is Osborne Road. 

We set off from Haslar Marina though, where we always find calm, quality food at Hardy’s and Trinity’s on the Lightship, but we’re taking the other green boat over the harbour to Old Portsmouth and Southsea, by bike of course, the only way to travel – and at the moment they go free!

 

  

Tiramisu rawsome cake - perfect with a drop of cold brew

10 minute gun – best coffee? Some good choices but we rate Southsea Coffee Co at No 63, who grind the beautiful Hasbeans and have some great snacks – particularly recommend the rawsome cakes, which are in fact awesome too, try the tiny tiramisu.

If you are coming in via the station grab a take out from Canvas Coffee Shop as the coffee is top drawer (Roasting Party in Winchester) and these guys are a Social Enterprise Pop-Up training barista skills to recovering addicts.

5 minute gun – missed breakfast in the excitement? Jump on the Teatray in the Sky at No 31 and go for their full breakfast, or BB’s favourite, the bacon, mushroom & gruyere crepe – and we’ll probably be back for full English Afternoon Tea Tray Style – best to book if you can

 

Teatray full English breakfast £5.95

 

Book your afternoon tea on 023 9273 1903

 

They’re off – pop into Circolo at No 78, for a quick pizza. We had a pizzette with a soft drink for just £7, so we can be back outside to watch them rounding the mark, then return for Affogato  

       

   

pizzette with a soft drink for just £7

General recall – well never mind, there's just time to visit the popular Abarbistro, 58 White Hart Rd, which many locals still call the American Bar, situated next to Portsmouth’s vibrant fish market Viviers in old Portsmouth, just behind BAR HQ on the Camber.

Abarbistro, at the back of Land Rover BAR HQ, Old Portsmouth

This is a delightful spot for lunch or dinner; enjoy the moules or whatever was caught that morning, simply grilled in butter, whilst sampling the extensive wine list, offering the opportunity for a decent try before you buy as Camber Wines is just upstairs. They had a great Cote de Provence Rose offer when I was there. Next Fishy Friday is Aug 7th

 

The winner, or is it a tie? We’re not sure yet, but we think the Wave Maiden at No 36 Osborne Rd, is well worth a visit, not huge, only open in the evenings during the week, but this is the place to try artisan beer and cheese. Not cheap, but memorable, and great for a lighter snack if you’ve been grazing all day. 

Particularly recommend the twist & snout, who could resist? Open 6-11pm but 12 – midnight on Saturday and 12-10 on Sunday, but think they might all extend for AC. 

And one of our favourite small chains (there are only two of them)  Belle Isle at No 39, fun, cheerful, value bar and decent range of burritos, club sandwiches, burgers and moules, quite a large space so you can bring the gang.

Belle Isle at No 39 Osborne Rd, cocktails, club sandwiches, burritas and fun

The Protest Card – has to be Gunwharf Quays – you know we try and support independents but there are a couple of reliably good chains here starting with Loch Fyne for the fishies, Azzurro for the Italianos and Jamie’s Italian for the risk averse. Enjoy 

#BringtheCupHome

More info on:

www.visitportsmouth.co.uk

http://www.visitportsmouth.co.uk/americas-cup-2015/whats-happening

Portsmouthfoodlovers.blogspot.com

Bite 13 - Christchurch Harbour

Bite 13 Christchurch Harbour/ Mudeford Quay

With the summer season now upon us it's time to get the sand between your toes and enjoy some very British seaside fun. So we borrow the old Windy and head to Mudeford Quay, where you can moor off the beach or tackle the Race and head into the harbour - max draft 3.5”, so worth doing a little research before hand - more info www.christchurch.gov.uk and moorings@christchurch.gov.uk

Christchurch Harbour was formed at the end of the Ice Age, some 7000 years ago, when sea levels rose, (yep, that old chestnut) vital history repeats itself, and what wonderful natural beauties are created in the process.

 

There was a piece in the paper a few weeks ago titled 'Des res by the sea, no facilities, a bargain at £240k' yes , we were talking about this magical, money earning spit of sand that has the most glorious stretch of beautifully coloured beach huts, providing real family fun through our long British summer season.

 

 Being mid-week we tie up on the pontoon at Mayor’s Mead, on the Stour, enabling us to get the bikes and find the lovely path out to Hengistbury Head starting on Wick Lane.

The Review; The Jetty right on the harbour in the grounds of the Christchurch Harbour Hotel.

 

     

Chef Alex Aitken has worked his magic around this area for many years, via le Poussin and Limewood before settling in Christchurch where he runs three restaurants, move over Padstein we have Mudken now.

The Jetty is a stunning, contemporary timber and glass building, set on the water’s edge. The cloud pruned trees on the terrace adding a Riviera feel, helped along by an azure sky with high cloud mottling – beautiful. All diners get a view of the harbour, interesting at whatever state of the tide, but we watched it roll in and Highcliffe Sailing Club  battle it out against Mudeford SC for their Wednesday evening dinghy race.

We chose the Colombard, a perfect light white to go with our selection of fish. The Jetty’s Villa Saint Michel is a quality example and I can also recommend the Picpoul, though more expensive. It may be old fashioned but they still do les amuse bouche here, and I have to say, it always makes me smile. This time it was a selection of tender warm octopus in a chilli sauce, a dinky seafood scotch egg and some ‘sweet as a nut’ tiny brown shrimp. 

Amuse bouche had us smiling

Alex believes in local and makes the most of Dorset produce. Starters were bouillabaisse for me (as I can never resist the rouille, spread on bread and parmesan mallarky floater) and the infamous Alex twice cooked cheese soufflé, with crunchy, caramalised edges and gooey, eggy joy in the middle; superb.

 

Alex's classic twice baked cheese souffle

Scallops from Weymouth with smokin blobby bits

The bream on crushed new potatoes was just as it should be, the sustainable fish flaking easily on the fork and the buttery spuds tasting like the first Jersey Royals used to - it has something to do with seaweed I’m told, or rather, the lack of it being spread on the land.

And the Weymouth scallops were a delight, visually and orally. Firm, sweet, with a smoked cauliflower puree, apple sauce blobs and cubes of divine pork belly. We couldn’t manage pudding so went for a walk around the deck before the light went.

Tel 01202 400950 dine@thejetty.co.uk

 

The easy path that takes you out to Hengistbury Head

Beautiful carved gate at the visitor's centre by Tom Harvey

The hike or bike: Our old friend Nat Cycle Route 2 takes you out of Christchurch to the sea, Hengistbury Head or to the beach huts at Mudeford and the convivial Beach House Café.

If walking the 2 + miles you can easily catch the train back to Christchurch.

The cycle is a doddle along good, level tarmac, enjoying wonderful views, and avoiding pedestrians.

The nature reserve centre at Hengistbury Head is worth a stop off, if only to admire the beautiful carved gates by sculpture Tom Harvey.

The train will run tired legs back to Christchurch

  

Best of the rest:

Fish & chips – Alexander’s along the main Mudeford Road, past the Nelson pub and before Stanpit. Great reliable fish and chips and worth the queue, then take them along to the quay and watch the sun go down with salty fingers.

Best fish & ships in town? Alexanders on Mudeford Road

The Beach House – over the water via the ferry, casual café with friendly young staff, great for a coffee break or crab cakes and a glass of rose.

Hops tops – the mussels and salmon niciose. Maybe pricey for the actual quality, when compared to other eateries around but for setting and logistics – most of their produce comes over via ferry, just enjoy the moment.

 

The King's Arms - good cocktails, great spot for Sunday lunch

The King’s Arms – walking into Christchurch from Mudeford this pub is on the right just past the bridge, again run by Alex Aitken, who has created a buzzing bar with DJs on Frid & Sat nights

Hops Tops: the 15 mile menu for £15 for 2 courses and a ‘Once Upon a Cosmo’ to start. #local

The Captain’s Table – an attractive minimalist white sugar cube of a building, on the river’s edge as you head up the Stour. Great spot for early drinks or cocktails on the terrace but I haven’t eaten here recently – send your thoughts in if you have please.