Bite 15 - Brixham

Bite 15 - Brixham 

Brixham makes a great stop off on your way west after leaving Portland, with a sheltered wide bay, dramatic headlands at Berry Head and a choice of two marinas.

The South Coast's most productive fishing port fills up the western corner of Tor Bay, sheltered by its long breakwater, nodding over to the resort town of Torquay, with its stylish old villas punctuating the cliffs and an hourly ferry connecting the two. With its back to the west, many gardens are shaded, whilst enjoying superb views over this busy bay, awash with bright sails, fishing boats and ferries most days through our very British Summer.

 

MDL's Brixham Marina with dedicated Jetski base

Brixham's old trawlers

We arrive and are shown to a visitor's berth at MDL's marina, they also own Torquay Marina so you can decide which suits your needs, or wind direction, but I want to get over to the huge fish market, built some five years ago and dominating the right hand side of the harbour where the trawlers and smaller fishing boats take pride of place.

We arrive early so off to find a decent cup of coffee, having been tipped off that there are at least three good independents - closest is Millie and Me, then the West Country Deli, or newer kid on the block, but a bit further to walk (up Fore Street and on your left, past a really good fruit and veg shop) you'll find Bay Coffee & Cake Company, and the good looking cakes are all made locally.

West Country Deli, convivial hosts and great coffee

Millie & Me's fruity cocktail list

Sophie runs Millie and Me which is in King Street, conveniently tucked behind the recently refurbished New Quay Inn, overlooking the harbour, but bizarrely not open until 5.30pm, but locals tell us it's a good stop off for a pint or glass of wine, before heading to Simply Fish for supper - just over the street, all a gentle 10 minute stroll from the marina.

We share a bacon butty and I try the flat white, whilst admiring the team preparing for their Pink Banana event, kicking off with a barbeque at lunch time and some fruity cocktails later. Sophie and a friendly couple at the next table put me straight about where I should head next.

The fab chaps from the local branch, shucking away for the RNLI

But before I hit the deli I fancy the walk out past the marina to Berry Head, as it's still early and a glorious sunny morning. Brixham has some lovely smuggler's alleys and we sneak along Newquay Lane walking along the quay, past the marina and slap into an RNLI fundraising day - the end of a whole week I believe, God love 'em! A fab team of four are doing their darnedest to shuck two enormous tubs of scallops, to serve later on with chorizo, chilli and lime I'm told and why the heck not? Concentrate Hopkins! 

On to the little beach, with immaculate Ikea photo fit flat pebble discs, the most perfect skimming stones ever, before climbing the concrete steps up to the street that is signed Berry Head and Shoalstone Lido - which I have been watching on Twitter. 

Shoalstone Lido - a wonderful community project on the road to Berry Head

A fabulous local project to update one of our rare seaside swimming pools, with gorgeous retro imagery and a cracking view as you plough up and down to keep warm - yes, it's refreshing, and I note it's the hardy mature mermaids in their cossies and the kids in wetsuits!

 

We can't linger. Berry Head Hotel beckons, with it’s magnificent views out to sea and over Tor Bay to Torquay. This makes a delightful lunch or dinner date, as you have walked just far enough to tackle the local Moules Mariniere, or possibly the smoked haddock and Applewood Cheddar fish cake whilst enjoying the Mediterranean view from the terrace.

The terrace at the ideally positioned Berry Head Hotel

Did you know?: The hotel was built at the start of the 1800s as a military hospital, serving the Napoleonic forts at Berry Head, later Henry Francis Lyte lived here, and wrote 'Abide with me' just four months before his death in 1847, inspired by his surroundings and perhaps suspecting something was up?

The hike: Our old mate the SW Coastal Path runs along these wonderful cliffs and you can go all along the River Dart if so inclined. We rounded Berry Head, passing the somewhat squat Lighthouse before wending our way back into Brixham, bacon butty walked off, but too early for the hotel’s high tea, served between 2.30 and 6.30, mental note to re-visit.

Back in Brixham the dilemma is lunch. I have three recommendations; Simply Fish, at the base of Fore Street, across from Millie and Me, with a lovely big parasol which would make lunch outside possible as the sun is streaming down, Bistro 46, family owned and producing some creative and unusual cooking from a tiny kitchen, but I didn't really fancy the lunch menu so will come back one evening soon, and as I still hadn't managed to get into the Fish Market - and neither was I - I'm whizzing along to Mitch Tonk's Rockfish before you can shout salt and pepper.

View over the fishing harbour from Rockfish's deck

The review

This lovely light barn of a room, with open rafters and gleaming copper bar is my sort of a place. The big deck wraps round the building, so plenty of room, choice of sun or shade and looks out over the fleet of working boats to the heritage sailing trawlers, ferries and leisure boats. A feast for the eyes, but what shall I chose for my plate?

 















Gosh - Rockfish Fritto Misto - red gurnard and monkfish filets with calamari and prawns too?

Then I saw tempura fried oysters and by now you might know that I have to have these little crisp gobbets of sea fresh phlegm whenever I see them on the menu. Rockfish serve them sitting atop their shell which is filled with a vibrant green cucumber relish; it really works and is fresh, not fiery and also a good dip with the chips.
 

My pal has a very generous portion of super fresh, plump, cod goujons with unlimited chips, for just £7.95. The neighbours had the Fritto Misto - great to share as a starter if you want to try a few other specials, like the salt & pepper prawns, calamari or scallops, straight off the boats below. You get a choice of three or four fish of the day that you can have cooked very simply with not a hint of batter; today we had Dover or Lemon Sole and plaice.

Good choice of wines, nice to have a small pichet when you order just a glass, can recommend the Muscadet. A couple of decent local draught beers and Rockfish Sea Cider goes down well with the older teens.

Top tip – visit the loos and listen to an interesting twist on the Shipping Forecast, my favourites being Lundy, Monday, Tuesday, Wednesday, Rockall - sod all! Indeed.

Now I still need to visit West Country Deli and am so glad I did as I load up with great local cheese and eggs and have a quick cortado whilst reading the menu. This is a great quick lunch stop and the platters look tempting. Very friendly couple Jo and Mark run this outfit and have chosen their own blend of organic, fair trade and Rainforest Alliance Certified beans – try it. If you’ve hiked out round Berry Head you may well wish to try their Devon Cheese Tea?

Onwards to Dartmouth – see you in September.

Info

Brixham Tourism - englishriviera.co.uk

Rockfish          www.therockfish.co.uk

Simply Fish     01803 883858             they do a full take away service too   

Bistro 46          01803 858936

Berry Head Hotel         01803 853225

Millie and Me                01803 858488

West Country Deli      01803 855775

Brixham Harbour Office 01803 851854

Fishstock 5th September fishstockbrixham.co.uk tickets £6, under 16s free

The fish market opens its doors and celebrates the local bounty - try and buy. Great SW chefs cook for you, live entertainment, look round the trawlers - all in aid of the Fishermen's Mission 

Brixfest – 28 May – 1^st June 2016. 

Bite 13 - Christchurch Harbour

Bite 13 Christchurch Harbour/ Mudeford Quay

With the summer season now upon us it's time to get the sand between your toes and enjoy some very British seaside fun. So we borrow the old Windy and head to Mudeford Quay, where you can moor off the beach or tackle the Race and head into the harbour - max draft 3.5”, so worth doing a little research before hand - more info www.christchurch.gov.uk and moorings@christchurch.gov.uk

Christchurch Harbour was formed at the end of the Ice Age, some 7000 years ago, when sea levels rose, (yep, that old chestnut) vital history repeats itself, and what wonderful natural beauties are created in the process.

 

There was a piece in the paper a few weeks ago titled 'Des res by the sea, no facilities, a bargain at £240k' yes , we were talking about this magical, money earning spit of sand that has the most glorious stretch of beautifully coloured beach huts, providing real family fun through our long British summer season.

 

 Being mid-week we tie up on the pontoon at Mayor’s Mead, on the Stour, enabling us to get the bikes and find the lovely path out to Hengistbury Head starting on Wick Lane.

The Review; The Jetty right on the harbour in the grounds of the Christchurch Harbour Hotel.

 

     

Chef Alex Aitken has worked his magic around this area for many years, via le Poussin and Limewood before settling in Christchurch where he runs three restaurants, move over Padstein we have Mudken now.

The Jetty is a stunning, contemporary timber and glass building, set on the water’s edge. The cloud pruned trees on the terrace adding a Riviera feel, helped along by an azure sky with high cloud mottling – beautiful. All diners get a view of the harbour, interesting at whatever state of the tide, but we watched it roll in and Highcliffe Sailing Club  battle it out against Mudeford SC for their Wednesday evening dinghy race.

We chose the Colombard, a perfect light white to go with our selection of fish. The Jetty’s Villa Saint Michel is a quality example and I can also recommend the Picpoul, though more expensive. It may be old fashioned but they still do les amuse bouche here, and I have to say, it always makes me smile. This time it was a selection of tender warm octopus in a chilli sauce, a dinky seafood scotch egg and some ‘sweet as a nut’ tiny brown shrimp. 

Amuse bouche had us smiling

Alex believes in local and makes the most of Dorset produce. Starters were bouillabaisse for me (as I can never resist the rouille, spread on bread and parmesan mallarky floater) and the infamous Alex twice cooked cheese soufflé, with crunchy, caramalised edges and gooey, eggy joy in the middle; superb.

 

Alex's classic twice baked cheese souffle

Scallops from Weymouth with smokin blobby bits

The bream on crushed new potatoes was just as it should be, the sustainable fish flaking easily on the fork and the buttery spuds tasting like the first Jersey Royals used to - it has something to do with seaweed I’m told, or rather, the lack of it being spread on the land.

And the Weymouth scallops were a delight, visually and orally. Firm, sweet, with a smoked cauliflower puree, apple sauce blobs and cubes of divine pork belly. We couldn’t manage pudding so went for a walk around the deck before the light went.

Tel 01202 400950 dine@thejetty.co.uk

 

The easy path that takes you out to Hengistbury Head

Beautiful carved gate at the visitor's centre by Tom Harvey

The hike or bike: Our old friend Nat Cycle Route 2 takes you out of Christchurch to the sea, Hengistbury Head or to the beach huts at Mudeford and the convivial Beach House Café.

If walking the 2 + miles you can easily catch the train back to Christchurch.

The cycle is a doddle along good, level tarmac, enjoying wonderful views, and avoiding pedestrians.

The nature reserve centre at Hengistbury Head is worth a stop off, if only to admire the beautiful carved gates by sculpture Tom Harvey.

The train will run tired legs back to Christchurch

  

Best of the rest:

Fish & chips – Alexander’s along the main Mudeford Road, past the Nelson pub and before Stanpit. Great reliable fish and chips and worth the queue, then take them along to the quay and watch the sun go down with salty fingers.

Best fish & ships in town? Alexanders on Mudeford Road

The Beach House – over the water via the ferry, casual café with friendly young staff, great for a coffee break or crab cakes and a glass of rose.

Hops tops – the mussels and salmon niciose. Maybe pricey for the actual quality, when compared to other eateries around but for setting and logistics – most of their produce comes over via ferry, just enjoy the moment.

 

The King's Arms - good cocktails, great spot for Sunday lunch

The King’s Arms – walking into Christchurch from Mudeford this pub is on the right just past the bridge, again run by Alex Aitken, who has created a buzzing bar with DJs on Frid & Sat nights

Hops Tops: the 15 mile menu for £15 for 2 courses and a ‘Once Upon a Cosmo’ to start. #local

The Captain’s Table – an attractive minimalist white sugar cube of a building, on the river’s edge as you head up the Stour. Great spot for early drinks or cocktails on the terrace but I haven’t eaten here recently – send your thoughts in if you have please.

Bite 11 - Weymouth

Bite 11 - Weymouth

Weymouth. Fun seaside town with one of the prettiest bays on the south coast. More bars than you can shake a stick of rock at, and a thriving music scene with some excellent food choices, enjoying the bounty of Dorset on land and sea.

Weymouth has a choice of marina berth or harbour mooring. An ever popular summer stop-off whilst heading west or great holiday destination, especially if you have the kids on board, as there are oodles of things to do here. I berthed at the ever friendly, warmly welcoming Weymouth Marina, asked the boys for their best bites and headed into town.

 

  

Weymouth is a free spirit. The bunting is always up in the back streets. The shop owners and restaurant runners, always chipper. They loved the Olympics, eventually, and they are the family face of the Jurassic Coast. Yes, this is fresh fish heaven

And the usual question I ask the locals first is - best Fish & Chips?

There are two camps here - Marlborough, adjacent to the town bridge (famous for introducing the mackerel bap and earning huge support from Hugh FW in the process) or Fish n Fritz, lovely clean, tiled restaurant a couple of streets back

Top end/ top dollar fish can be found at the Dining Room, and if you ever get the chance to try their 'You catch, we cook', grab it. Thought up by dynamic duo Em and Clem Carter (Emma runs B+B Weymouth, Clem is a professional fisherman) he takes people out and what they bring back into port is cooked by Taher. A wonderful day out with excellent edible results - a very special treat. Owner Taher Jibet weaves his magic here and runs a cookery school too

And for in between you have one of my favourite, small, local chains - The Stable, right on the quay, serving pizzas and pies, made from Dorset produce and a huge range of ciders. The George next door shares the same fabulous views over the commercial fishing boats and a percentage of sales goes to the RNLI, a very important service here, especially since losing the Coast Guard.

      

                      

Dorset Burger Company, conveniently near the station

The review –

Dorset Burger Company, 6 King Street, 01305 780888

DBC comes out as favourite friendly, reliable Best Bite in Weymouth. Following their growing success they have now relocated to bigger premises near the station. Opposite the Dorset Real Pie & Ale Shop - also worth a visit

DBC is always busy, and no wonder. All burgers are made from quality meats sourced only from Dorset Farms. They have a few secret, homemade extras, like the paprika seasoned chips and a wonderful pickle type relish - all recipes secret squirrel. No wonder they won Best South West Café TOTW Gold Award 2014

The staff are excellent and families with youngsters had the added bonus of the kids receiving an Easter Egg over the festive weekend.

Hops choice: The March Burger of the Month - The Dirty Moo - see photo

This homemade beef burger is topped with Monterey Jack cheese, that secret 'dirty sauce' and BBQ pulled pork to finish! Juicy, flavoursome, the meat still with a bit of bite and top crunchy coleslaw. Fabulous

 

The Dirty Moo - home made Dorset beef burger with local Pulled Pork

 

Other favourites are the Red Lion with great pub food and well kept beer and live music on Sundays. Lots going on in the convivial Hope Square

The deli on Charlbury Corner

  

The busy harbour, something always going on...

Charlbury Corner – deli, local produce, cheeses etc        Rossi’s Ice Cream

Enzo’s Italian – out on the seafront overlooking Weymouth’s beautiful bay.

Best coffee in Town?

Coffee#1 - Now I know this is a chain, but so is the Stable, which we all love. It's a nice clean building, good meeting place and the pastries are really fresh - I recommend the Portuguese Custard Tart and you have a choice of blends

But I think Bibi’s (a jewel of a fashion shop, with some excellent bags, boots and shoes)  tiny café called Coco’s, serves a very good cup of Italian roast and the landmark, traditional coffee house Suttons is best stop for an early caffeine hit.

    

Proper Fish Market - on the Quay and open every day except Sunday, run by friendly family firm Weyfish. Top quality wet fish and seafood.

Weymouth Marina, Dean & Reddyhoff. Tel 01305 767576 www.deanreddyhoff.co.uk

B+B Weymouth 01305 783008

Other favourites that have recently closed are Floods and Waffle On - so watch this space to hear what happens to the creative people involved here ...

The bike – 2 miles + as long as you like - take the Rodwell Trail out past Asda to Chesil Beach

Bike hire delivered direct to the marina from www.weymouthcyclehire.co.uk 07973 751393

or Jurassic Electric and Signpost Cycling do some interesting tours in the area.

The Rodwell Trail

If you make it up the hill this is the well deserved view

The hike – 1.5 – 3 miles.  Wonderful walks through the Wetlands over the road from the marina. More info on Visit Dorset site below.

Useful sites:

www.visit-dorset.com

www.jurassiccoast.org

Rodwell Trail and many other cycle routes – www.gps-routes.co.uk

Weymouth to Dorchester option:

http://www.gps-routes.co.uk/routes/home.nsf/RoutesLinksCycle/dorchester-to-weymouth-cycle

 

Well connected? Twice-hourly trains to Dorchester (11 minutes) and Bournemouth (50-60); to London Waterloo at least hourly (160-190).

From the readers....

Mark Packer "Bournemouth has a beach, Poole has a harbour, Weymouth has both. Helen's Wholefoods is a local treasure. For more traditional seaside fare, head to Fish'n'Fritz in town, then stroll along the prom for ice-cream at Rossi's, opposite the Jubilee Clock. For history, visit the Nothe Fort, at the entrance of the harbour."

Andy McLaughlin "Best thing? Proximity to Portland