Bite 13 Christchurch Harbour/ Mudeford Quay
With the summer season now upon us it's time to get the sand between
your toes and enjoy some very British seaside fun. So we borrow the old Windy
and head to Mudeford Quay, where you can moor off the beach or tackle the Race
and head into the harbour - max draft 3.5”, so worth doing a little research before hand - more info www.christchurch.gov.uk and moorings@christchurch.gov.uk
Christchurch Harbour was formed at the end of the Ice Age, some 7000
years ago, when sea levels rose, (yep, that old chestnut) vital history repeats
itself, and what wonderful natural beauties are created in the process.
There was a piece in the paper a few weeks ago titled 'Des res by
the sea, no facilities, a bargain at £240k' yes , we were talking about
this magical, money earning spit of sand that has the most glorious stretch of
beautifully coloured beach huts, providing real family fun through our long
British summer season.
Being mid-week we tie up on the pontoon at Mayor’s Mead, on the Stour, enabling us
to get the bikes and find the lovely path out to Hengistbury Head starting on Wick Lane.
The Review; The Jetty right on the harbour in the grounds of the Christchurch
Harbour Hotel.
Chef Alex Aitken has worked his magic around this area for many
years, via le Poussin and Limewood before settling in Christchurch where he runs three restaurants,
move over Padstein we have Mudken now.
The Jetty is a stunning, contemporary timber and glass building, set
on the water’s edge. The cloud
pruned trees on the terrace adding a Riviera
feel, helped along by an azure sky with high cloud mottling – beautiful. All diners get a view of the harbour, interesting at
whatever state of the tide, but we watched it roll in and Highcliffe Sailing
Club battle it out against Mudeford SC
for their Wednesday evening dinghy race.
We chose the Colombard, a perfect light white to go with our
selection of fish. The Jetty’s Villa Saint Michel
is a quality example and I can also recommend the Picpoul, though more
expensive. It may be old fashioned but they still do les amuse bouche here, and
I have to say, it always makes me smile. This time it was a selection of tender
warm octopus in a chilli sauce, a dinky seafood scotch egg and some ‘sweet as a nut’ tiny brown shrimp.
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| Amuse bouche had us smiling |
Alex believes in local and makes the most of Dorset
produce. Starters were bouillabaisse for me (as I can never resist the rouille,
spread on bread and parmesan mallarky floater) and the infamous Alex twice
cooked cheese soufflé, with crunchy,
caramalised edges and gooey, eggy joy in the middle; superb.
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| Alex's classic twice baked cheese souffle |
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| Scallops from Weymouth with smokin blobby bits |
The bream on crushed new potatoes was just as it should be, the
sustainable fish flaking easily on the fork and the buttery spuds tasting like
the first Jersey Royals used to - it has something to do with seaweed I’m told, or rather, the lack of it being spread on the land.
And the Weymouth
scallops were a delight, visually and orally. Firm, sweet, with a smoked
cauliflower puree, apple sauce blobs and cubes of divine pork belly. We couldn’t manage pudding so went for a walk around the deck before the light
went.
Tel 01202 400950 dine@thejetty.co.uk
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| The easy path that takes you out to Hengistbury Head |
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| Beautiful carved gate at the visitor's centre by Tom Harvey |
The hike or bike: Our old friend Nat
Cycle Route 2 takes you out of Christchurch
to the sea, Hengistbury Head or to the beach huts at Mudeford and the convivial
Beach House Café.
If walking the 2 + miles you can easily catch the train back to Christchurch.
The cycle is a doddle along good, level tarmac, enjoying wonderful
views, and avoiding pedestrians.
The nature reserve centre at Hengistbury Head is worth a stop off, if only to
admire the beautiful carved gates by sculpture Tom Harvey.
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| The train will run tired legs back to Christchurch |
Best of the rest:
Fish & chips – Alexander’s along the main Mudeford
Road, past the Nelson pub and before Stanpit. Great
reliable fish and chips and worth the queue, then take them along to the quay
and watch the sun go down with salty fingers.
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| Best fish & ships in town? Alexanders on Mudeford Road |
The Beach House – over the water via
the ferry, casual café with friendly young
staff, great for a coffee break or crab cakes and a glass of rose.
Hops tops – the mussels and salmon niciose. Maybe pricey for the actual
quality, when compared to other eateries around but for setting and logistics – most of their produce comes over via ferry, just enjoy the moment.
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| The King's Arms - good cocktails, great spot for Sunday lunch |
The King’s Arms – walking into Christchurch from
Mudeford this pub is on the right just past the bridge, again run by Alex
Aitken, who has created a buzzing bar with DJs on Frid & Sat nights
Hops Tops: the 15 mile
menu for £15 for 2 courses and
a ‘Once Upon a Cosmo’ to start. #local
The Captain’s Table – an attractive
minimalist white sugar cube of a building, on the river’s edge as you head up the Stour. Great
spot for early drinks or cocktails on the terrace but I haven’t eaten here recently –
send your thoughts in if you have please.
