Saturday, 1 November 2014

No 5. Falmouth

The World's third largest natural, deep water harbour and a healthy commercial port to boot. 
Deep into Cornwall, with wonderful creeks that are a pirates dream, beautiful beaches, tropical gardens and more eating choices than you can shake a fish slice at! 

I visited during the annual Oyster Fest, which opens the season in October, and draws a wide crowd to enjoy the food and music. This year’s top performers were the Fisherman’s Friends and the Oggy Men. Date for 2015 15-18th October – you heard it here first, book your berth!

Map of Falmouth Estuary 
Now this is not a great area for cycling to my preferred haunts, as the roads are narrow and twisty, so this month I'll simply list top spots and one safe walk.

In Falmouth itself there is a huge choice of places to eat, with fun cafes competing with more serious restaurants, most enjoying glorious views over the Fal Estuary or out to sea. Quality is high and local produce well respected. A joyful town with friendly inhabitants and home to Rustler Yachts, of course, surely producing some of the prettiest boats around?

The Review.
Rick Stein's Fish offers some great light bites, ideal if you like to try lots of different flavours and get bored with raw oysters. The other advantage of this place is that you can usually get in - they don't take reservations - and I haven't been turned away, whereas I will have to wait to try The Wheelhouse which was highly recommended, so try it if you can.

Most popular plate is definitely the fish & chips but through the Oyster Fest they add some groovy 'specials' to the menu and I had to try them –
The Oysters

The Menu
First off - tempura oysters with sesame seeds & lime, light as a puff of air with a crisp soft chew. Still room so next I tried the trio of Parmesan cream oysters, interesting, but not as good as the tempura. Washed down with good house Muscadet 

Hops choice - all the starters, salt n pepper prawns and chilli squid. Tel 01841 532700


Top Veggie choice - The Wildebeest, 13 Arwenack St, 01326 210602

Wildbeest Interior

Top for Seafood/Crab - The Wheel House, 01326 318050 - need to book, they run 2 sittings. Situated down Upton Slip - these guys are so busy they don’t even have a sign! 

The Wheel House

Hottest Coffee - Espressini, there’s a new tiny branch opposite the Stable but the main hub is on central Killigrew St. Serious about coffee choice and a great little menu.

The Coffee

The Menu

Best Bread - Baker Tom - this artisan baker has 4 bases now, and you could do worse than coming into town from the boat and loading up with fresh breads, a few saffron buns, some Cornish cream and cheese from the deli and head off for a picnic. 01326 318221

Baker Tom's Bread

Fastest Fish & Chips - Harbour Lights – on the quay near the Stable – eat in or take out.



Beyond Falmouth

Top pub - Pandora Inn - Wonderful setting and really good daily specials. Ruby Red Aged beef from the Lizard caught my eye as I was all fished out, but my neighbours always come for the mussels as they say the cream and butter sauce is first class.
Their most popular plate is the local catch of the day Fish & Ships or the Pandora Fish Pie
Like their ‘Wine of month’ option too.
Tel 01326 372678


Moules

The View
Maybe coming by boat would be safer then those narrow roads - or boat to Mylor Bridge & then walk. Parking is tight on sunny days and weekends.


Best afternoon tea?

Penryn - Miss Pepperpot’s cafe at Jubilee Wharf as I had heard great things about their homemade cakes. They embrace local and epicycle, see crockery. Dabara Bakers (Truro) and Origin Coffee from Helston.

PH - Peach and almond cake with a pot of Clipper tea (£4.50) a crunchy sugar topped moist cake, with big chunks of peach along with juice almonds with a decent bite - delicious snack for walker!

Best cakes/ bohemian experience -  Potager, Constantine

Again, this is no calm bike ride and I think you would be better walking over the fields and then catching the bus home or catch a lift with any friendly folks in Falmouth heading towards Constantine, to stock up on eccentric booze in the Post Office.

Potager Glass House is just before Constantine and is well worth a visit - a dream of a working garden rediscovered, that has recently opened up it's hand built (by Mark, local boat builder) greenhouse on Fridays and weekends. Wonderful atmosphere. Very happy families either playing ping pong in another glasshouse or eating cakes and drinking tea, or resting after a session in the garden – Friday helpers get rewarded with a cream tea! Interesting Breton baker Awen makes all the breads from sour dough base, with a very interesting long stir and overnight prove method. Come and spend some time here, open from breakfast till tea time. 01326 341258

PH – coffee, syrup cake


Inside Glass House

Coffee Syrup Cake

The hike – Flushing to Mylor Bridge - 5 miles there and back

This is a beautiful walk following the coastal path from Flushing (see link below to start from Falmouth) to Mylor Bridge with a welcome cafĂ© ‘Castaways’ at the end.
01326 377710
http://falmouthbids.s3.amazonaws.com/1282923256_952.pdf





Falmouth Tourism www.falmouth.co.uk with info on the all important ferry services
Maritime Museum www.nmmc.co.uk
Electric bikes at Penryn – Batribike.com – Peter Williams 07966 425774

And Potager sells some lovely (tiny) walking maps that take you on 2-7 mile walks from the gardens.