No. 8 Gosport

Having survived the Boat Show and been inspired by the plans on the BAR (Ben Ainslie Racing) stand, my thoughts move to a sun drenched, fresh breezed Portsmouth Harbour this July.

Visitors coming to watch the AC45’s race from their HQ in the Camber, might like to consider the nourishing delights that the Rive Gauche offers, in spades.

BAR team in the Solent

There is a life force to Gosport that is seen in the way Alex Thomson strolls up a 30 metre mast, or how Caroline Dinenage MP sends a steely look over to the opposition at Question Time; Gosport produces some fine stars and is fondly dubbed GosVegas by it’s rocking residents.

Converts that move here have made quite a splash and contributed hugely to charity and the community - I'm thinking Tanya Brookfield here (Toe in the Water) and Endurance Swimmer Anna Wardley, with her Five Island Swim Challenge; both raising funds, changing lives and putting smiles on faces.

It's a great place to keep the boat or visit, any time of the year, as there is just so much to do here - sun or rain - museums galore, shops, cinemas, restaurants, lashings of Naval history, both sides of the harbour, but connected fluidly by the super efficient green ferry - £3.10 return, runs from 5.30 till midnight.

Gosport Ferry

Now, to the food....

If you stay at Haslar Marina, marked by the big green Lightship 'Mary Mouse', you have two great choices on-site : 

Haslar Marina 

Hardy's has been run by Sarah Conchie and team for 3 years. They run an efficient ship with a very popular happy hour from 5-7pm from Monday to Thursday, buy one drink get one free. 

A great gathering place for berth holders, those working at Haslar and people dropping by for an early drink before dinner in a convivial setting near the water. 

They have recently launched a supper and wine tasting club, meeting every couple of months with Spain being the first port of call. Berth holder’s receive a 10% discount for parties of four or more.

Food is of very good quality, most popular dishes being the rib eye steaks and home made burger, which changes daily. The chef, Paul Thompson, cooks local fish and steaks quite perfectly. 

Hops choice – the salt n’pepper fish – usually squid, scallops & king prawns – lip smacking!

Hardy's Happy Hour

Their ever popular fish cakes

Trinity's at the Lightship is on the fantastic green landmark at the end of the pontoons - access for non-bertholders is via the gated entrance, buzz the marina office for entry. 

Maria Hodgkins took over the Lightship last spring and along with her inspiring chef Geoff, has completely transformed the ship and the quality of food on this amazing piece of nautical history. Sun decks, providing ever changing views over one of our busiest harbours; bar, breakfast, lunch and dinner – berth holders get 10% discount and the Wardroom is ready to hire for private events.

Most popular dish: the fish and chips

Hops choice: the Haddock Arnold Bennett if it's on the menu, sautéed potatoes properly finished in butter and real puddings like lemon meringue pie.

Open from 11 - 23hrs, but shut in January.

Trinitys at The Lightship 

Haddock Arnold Bennett

If you're moored up at Gosport Marina you have The Boat House Cafe which is not quite as sophisticated as the above but ok for a coffee stop. If you are at Royal Clarence it's not too far to walk to the delights of Gosport central, and most of our favourites are bunched around the ferry area.

Go to Tripadvisor and you’ll find cheekily named TK Snax, at number one. A little diner-cum-takeaway by the ferry that does cheerful Caribbean & Mexican food: pulled pork, goat curry, Belize Tamales and ever popular burritos 

Marten, the chef/proprietor, is married to a Belizean lady who has helped him with his recipes. He doesn’t’t have a drinks license, but he is happy if you Bring Your Own and he has wine glasses under the counter. A hearty red is strongly recommended, or a couple of litres of water!

Curried Goat with fried Plantains

Best Fish & Chips? In Gosport try the greatly neglected Frydays, the big fish ‘n chipper opposite the ferry. The chips are fine, but the fish is very good and BYO is possible here too. 

But top votes go to the Smart Fish Bar towards Lee on the Solent, if you are heading out that way.

We also like Lulu’s Tea Room, conveniently placed opposite Waitrose for a dainty cup of tea and slice of homemade cake – we enjoyed the lavender and orange blossom – cake, not tea.

And then of course there’s the Castle Tavern. The roasts are the jewel in the crown, but everything is good, inexpensive and for hungry yachties comes in enormous portions. The Doombar and Broadside are kept well.

If you want to be on the beach head to The Pebbles on Stokes Bay Road, good views and wine list, but it all comes alive on Wednesday evenings with great tapas and usually a jazz band.

Best Indian is The New Bengal, 27 Stoke Road, the Mecca for the sail training community.

The hike or bike: great cycle routes take bikers safely out to Lee on the Solent and Stokes Bay, there are some good web sites to chose from, but I like Walk, Jog, Run – take a look at:

 http://www.walkjogrun.net/cycling-routes/UK/Hampshire/Gosport/

Here’s a good 12+ mile circular route taking you out to Stubbington via Lee on the Solent and back past Hardway. Plenty of café stops at Lee, including some favourites of ours, The Penguin, The Tea Party, the Tea Room and Laneway Café for good coffee. 

If you get the bug and want to do a charity cycle this summer you could do worse than trying the Hampshire Harbours Route, all for the British Heart Foundation – more info here:

https://www.bhf.org.uk/get-involved/events/bike-rides/hampshire-harbours-bike-ride

Contacts:

Haslar Marina 023 9260 1201

Hardy’s 023 9258 8810

Trinty’s on the Lightship 023 9250 3387

TK Snax 023 9217 0208

The Pebbles 023 9251 0789

The New Bengal 023 9258 3722

Smart Fish Bar 023 9255 1166

No 5. Falmouth

The World's third largest natural, deep water harbour and a healthy commercial port to boot. 

Deep into Cornwall, with wonderful creeks that are a pirates dream, beautiful beaches, tropical gardens and more eating choices than you can shake a fish slice at! 

I visited during the annual Oyster Fest, which opens the season in October, and draws a wide crowd to enjoy the food and music. This year’s top performers were the Fisherman’s Friends and the Oggy Men. Date for 2015 15-18^th October – you heard it here first, book your berth!

Map of Falmouth Estuary 

Now this is not a great area for cycling to my preferred haunts, as the roads are narrow and twisty, so this month I'll simply list top spots and one safe walk.

In Falmouth itself there is a huge choice of places to eat, with fun cafes competing with more serious restaurants, most enjoying glorious views over the Fal Estuary or out to sea. Quality is high and local produce well respected. A joyful town with friendly inhabitants and home to Rustler Yachts, of course, surely producing some of the prettiest boats around?

The Review.

Rick Stein's Fish offers some great light bites, ideal if you like to try lots of different flavours and get bored with raw oysters. The other advantage of this place is that you can usually get in - they don't take reservations - and I haven't been turned away, whereas I will have to wait to try The Wheelhouse which was highly recommended, so try it if you can.

Most popular plate is definitely the fish & chips but through the Oyster Fest they add some groovy 'specials' to the menu and I had to try them –

The Oysters

The Menu

First off - tempura oysters with sesame seeds & lime, light as a puff of air with a crisp soft chew. Still room so next I tried the trio of Parmesan cream oysters, interesting, but not as good as the tempura. Washed down with good house Muscadet 

Hops choice - all the starters, salt n pepper prawns and chilli squid. Tel 01841 532700

Top Veggie choice - The Wildebeest, 13 Arwenack St, 01326 210602

Wildbeest Interior

Top for Seafood/Crab - The Wheel House, 01326 318050 - need to book, they run 2 sittings. Situated down Upton Slip - these guys are so busy they don’t even have a sign! 

The Wheel House

Hottest Coffee - Espressini, there’s a new tiny branch opposite the Stable but the main hub is on central Killigrew St. Serious about coffee choice and a great little menu.

The Coffee

The Menu

Best Bread - Baker Tom - this artisan baker has 4 bases now, and you could do worse than coming into town from the boat and loading up with fresh breads, a few saffron buns, some Cornish cream and cheese from the deli and head off for a picnic. 01326 318221

Baker Tom's Bread

Fastest Fish & Chips - Harbour Lights – on the quay near the Stable – eat in or take out.

Beyond Falmouth

Top pub - Pandora Inn - Wonderful setting and really good daily specials. Ruby Red Aged beef from the Lizard caught my eye as I was all fished out, but my neighbours always come for the mussels as they say the cream and butter sauce is first class.

Their most popular plate is the local catch of the day Fish & Ships or the Pandora Fish Pie

Like their ‘Wine of month’ option too.

Tel 01326 372678

Moules

The View

Maybe coming by boat would be safer then those narrow roads - or boat to Mylor Bridge & then walk. Parking is tight on sunny days and weekends.

Best afternoon tea?

Penryn - Miss Pepperpot’s cafe at Jubilee Wharf as I had heard great things about their homemade cakes. They embrace local and epicycle, see crockery. Dabara Bakers (Truro) and Origin Coffee from Helston.

PH - Peach and almond cake with a pot of Clipper tea (£4.50) a crunchy sugar topped moist cake, with big chunks of peach along with juice almonds with a decent bite - delicious snack for walker!

Best cakes/ bohemian experience -  Potager, Constantine

Again, this is no calm bike ride and I think you would be better walking over the fields and then catching the bus home or catch a lift with any friendly folks in Falmouth heading towards Constantine, to stock up on eccentric booze in the Post Office.

Potager Glass House is just before Constantine and is well worth a visit - a dream of a working garden rediscovered, that has recently opened up it's hand built (by Mark, local boat builder) greenhouse on Fridays and weekends. Wonderful atmosphere. Very happy families either playing ping pong in another glasshouse or eating cakes and drinking tea, or resting after a session in the garden – Friday helpers get rewarded with a cream tea! Interesting Breton baker Awen makes all the breads from sour dough base, with a very interesting long stir and overnight prove method. Come and spend some time here, open from breakfast till tea time. 01326 341258

PH – coffee, syrup cake

Inside Glass House

Coffee Syrup Cake

The hike – Flushing to Mylor Bridge - 5 miles there and back

This is a beautiful walk following the coastal path from Flushing (see link below to start from Falmouth) to Mylor Bridge with a welcome café ‘Castaways’ at the end.

01326 377710

http://falmouthbids.s3.amazonaws.com/1282923256_952.pdf

Falmouth Tourism www.falmouth.co.uk with info on the all important ferry services

Maritime Museum www.nmmc.co.uk

Electric bikes at Penryn – Batribike.com – Peter Williams 07966 425774

http://www.falmouth.co.uk/see-and-do/cycling

Link for walks - http://www.falmouth.co.uk/see-and-do/walking

And Potager sells some lovely (tiny) walking maps that take you on 2-7 mile walks from the gardens. 

No 4. Poole Quay

Poole Harbour is second only to Sydney as the World's biggest natural harbour and there is something for everyone here, with a choice of idyllic moorings to the west of the Harbour or to go into one of the many well serviced marinas. We, as ever, are looking for the slightly unusual place that is a hike or bike away from our mooring:

From the Quay itself:
Party Animal option - moor up on Quay wall if you dare, around £19 for a 25 footer or go into the quieter, more secure Poole Quay Boat Haven, just along the quay for £28.

Tel: 01202 649488

Now you are in the thick of things and can chose between the remarkable institution that is the Guildhall Tavern, run by chef owners Frederick & Severine, serving fantastic French food, from grilled sardine fillets to proper snails and beef Bourguignon, all delicious, but a bit of a special place to go, so my top tip is to go for lunch if you can, when 2 courses from the table d'hôte will cost £15, which is excellent value for food of this consistent standard.
They also do Seafood Platters to go, chose exactly what you want and pay accordingly. 

8 min walk to 15 Market Street, quiet road behind the Quay

Tel: 01202 671717                Website: www.guildhalltavern.co.uk

PH choice:     Homemade crispy tartlet with scallops & crab in a dill cream sauce, followed by Chicken oysters, with shallots, carrots & courgettes in a cheddar & cream reduction - then a nap.

The Stable
If you have the teens on board or there's a gang of you why not head to the Stable? Everyone's favourite pizza/pie and cider joint. This maybe a chain, but it's a very fine one and local! 
Starting in Bridport some 8 years ago, concentrating on using the best local produce they are growing in a very healthy way. They have recently opened on Fistral Beach and in Falmouth and tick all the boxes for me. Great choice of ever changing West Country ciders and live music every Sunday afternoon in Pool. They even do gluten free pizza bases, and if you order a 'Billy the kid' without cheese it's vegan friendly!

 3 min walk as right on Quay

Poole Quay Stable: 01202 661471              Visit the website for more info & locations www.stablepizza.com

PH choice:   The 'Durdle Door' pizza - herb roasted potato, Dorset Blue Vinney, roast Spanish onions, spinach...... and a pint of Dorset Nectar Wildcat

The hike - Poole Quay to Parkstone Bay 3 miles
Now for the hike - not very strenuous this time. Set off east along the water front following a clearly marked path, shared with cyclists, that takes you along the waters edge around Parkstone Bay, it is part of Sustrans Route 25. 

Map of Poole Quay

When you cross the large play area at Whitecliff you will see a small marina ahead with many motor boats ashore - this is Parkstone Bay. Your destination is on the right, the low slung shed that is Deep South Cafe. 

The review
This is a very popular meeting place for locals and those about to zip round the bay in their sports boats. It's been pretty full whenever I've visited and the team are friendly and efficient. Owned by Stéphane Rondos who has brought some of his Belgian favourites to the table
But it's the small shed opposite that beckons me, with aromas of fresh bread and baked plums wafting through the chain curtain - they have their own micro bakery on site - heaven!
Alena Dostalova learnt to throw dough around when she helped her grandfather bake in the Czech Republic, but extended her skills in the UK as patisserie chef, she now bakes all the cakes, pastries, breads and deserts for the cafe, fresh from the oven.

Now, to lunch, I had been told that moules was probably the most popular dish, so was glad to see they came as a starter, at £4.50, great value and stops you getting bored with what I'm told is our best farmed protein with the smallest carbon footprint! They were good, and served with Alena’s breads of course. Followed by sea bass on ratatouille and my pal had the Belgian meatballs, with a sweet onion gravy. The sea bass was fine, with a good crispy skin, but the meatballs a tad disappointing in taste, though the skin-on-chips were very good. 
There were a lot of happy faces around us and I liked the mix, families, sports boat pre doughnut riders and quieter couples. It was busy but the food came quickly and there is plenty of room for people to spill out beyond the decks.

40 min walk one way, about 3 miles. Return walk - try and go through Poole Park and admire the fun on the lake from dinghy sailing to model swan pedallos, a wonderfully traditional boating park

• the setting, bakery and relaxed attitude  - a limited menu

Website: www.parkstonebay.com      Cafe Tel: 01202 733155

PH choice:    The moules or haddock fish cakes, all fresh baked stuff and the coffee's good. 

Exterior of the Deep South Cafe

Deep South Cafe

Baker Alena Dostalova

The bike - a choice of 3 piggy routes
Now you have a choice of direction here, as bike hire is scant around the Poole area, with the Academy down at Sandbanks being closest, but quite a hike from the Quay. 
If you rented here and crossed over on the chain ferry to Studland the whole of the Purbeck opens up to you, but for a lunch stop try heading up to Wareham on cycle route 2, at least half of it off road, and the quaint town, a favourite of many smaller vessels, or bilge keelers has a great choice of pubs, cafes and restaurants.

10 miles from Sandbanks ferry.

PH choice:  The Ginger Pig, deli come farm shop, try the quiche, and take some sausages back to the boat.

If you have bikes on board you can nip onto Route 25 which takes you north on smooth tarmac paths out of Poole and then wiggles out to the west, avoiding the main road into Wimborne Minster, here you will find Pig 2 of the Tickled variety - very popular restaurant with a loyal following that have a great outside catering van that I have seen at several food shows and particularly like their hanghi lamb - worth travelling to try!
The Tickled Pig at Wimborne Minster.

8 miles via Route 25

The Tickled Pig at Wimbourne Minster

And Pig No 3 is the newly opened Pig on the Beach, at Studland.
As this is right on the beach you have all three choices of how to get to this one, by boat, moor off in Shell Bay and dinghy ashore, or by foot or bike.

3.5 miles 30 minutes by bike, or walk the coast path and it will take you about an hour.

Tel: 01590 622354

Enjoy!

Contacts:
Guildhall Tavern, Poole Quay         01202 671717
The Stable, Poole Quay                 01202 661471
South Deep Café, Parkstone Bay         01202 733155
Salt Pig – Wareham                 01929 550673
The Pig on the Beach, Studland         01590 622354
The Tickled Pig, Wimborne Minster        01202 886778
Bike hire: thewatersportsacademy.com 01202 708283 hire = £20 per day
Cycle routes www.sustrans.org.uk

www.pooltourism.com

No 1. Portland & West Dorset

Penny Hopkins hunts out some special places to eat, whilst hiking the shores of Portland

Portland has an excellent, well equipped marina set amidst the stunning scenery of Dorset’s Jurassic coast. If you haven't visited yet, why not plan a trip leaving enough time to sample the excellent cafes and restaurants in the area.

We’ll start at Portland Marina itself, as the newly opened Harbour Lights waterfront bar & restaurant is here. Nigel & Ysanne Williams are serving quality, locally sourced fish and meat with weekly guest beers and a decent range of wine. A good choice of smaller dishes for lunch, like their Blue Cheese Stack (field mushroom with melted blue cheese on ciabatta) and daily specials, in pies, sausages and pasta and local fish of the day in cider batter.

Open from 10am for breakfast every day. The young chef makes a good eggs Benedict. 

 + great views, quality food       

- not open early enough for some, only filter coffee ☹     

                                
                      Tel 01305 823000                              www.harbourlights.co                            

Most popular plate – the daily catch fish & chips and the homemade burger.  

PH choice – the panaché of fish with a glass of Pinot Grigio Rosé, Mannara – perfect when the sun’s out

panaché of fish

If you want to stretch your legs, or are hunting out an early breakfast, head south to the Blue Fish, (about 15 min walk) a well established, popular fish restaurant run by chef/owner Luciano Da Silva who offers a good breakfast from 9, but do come back and try the local scallops if you can, on the sunny terrace with a chilled glass to hand. Great homemade burgers, steaks and bangers & mash for the carnivores. Local, sustainable produce, hands-on chef who knows what he’s doing.  
15 min walk

+ skilled cooking, great price range, very popular

- shut on Mon & Tues, complicated opening hours

                Tel 01305 822991 for opening times www.thebluefishrestaurant.com

Most popular plate moules, frites & glass of wine for £12
PH choice – tricky, depends what’s on the board…….wine – inspired Marlborough of the day!

The Area

  Luciano doing a scallop demo at Fish & Ships 14 at Portland this April

                              

The coastal path from Abbotsbury to Hive Beach

                                                    

So, the sun is out and you know the sea will be blue if you could just peep over the mound of pebbles that is Chesil Beach, so head north along the causeway to the Chesil Wildlife Centre, a well designed stone and glass building, where Todd & Louise Moffat are running Taste. A great little cafe with views to the rise of Chesil Beach and back towards the Fleet. School children ebb and flow during the day and the cafe serves breakfast, brunch, lunch and afternoon tea, and you are welcome for just a tea or latte – which is very good and comes from Clifton Coffee. Lots of special events, tapas, pudding nights, held monthly. No reservations.
 22 min walk

 +  great spot/ stop off walkers & cyclists, good for the kids  

 -  doesn’t open till 10

                 Tel 01305 206196                               www.tasterestaurant.co.uk

Most popular dish – anything with the local crab – from sandwiches to fritters, but it has to be Portland!

Ok, this is a lot of chat about food, so how about putting on those trainers that are hidden in the locker next to the beer?  Portland has 2 prisons, a quarry, and the famous lighthouse at its furthest point and a wild 9+ mile circular walk, pick up a map at the marina and make sure you time the walk to coincide with lunch or tea at the Jailhouse Café situated on your left as you climb up the eastern slopes (signed) Go through the impressive tunnel leading to HMP The Verne and past the prison up to the top. The café has stunning views over the Jurassic coastline. Home made soups, cakes and puddings and daily specials are all prepared and served by the resident offenders of HMP/YOI Portland as part of a successful programme to reduce re-offending by teaching new, real skills; an admirable community project. 
2 miles uphill 50 mins

                Tel 01305 825186                               www.jailhousecafe.co.uk

The Crab House is a bit of an institution whose national reviews may put you off, but is a very relaxed indoor/ outdoor café serving the freshest of fish and shellfish from as close to the plate as Nigel Bloxham can manage. This unique coastline, with the 8 mile long Fleet lagoon stretching behind the big brother of Chesil Beach provides a perfect, clean nursing ground for the sweet, plump little Portland Pearl oyster which the Crab House farms, in new wooden crates, no rusty rumble on the taste buds anymore, ask Nigel to tell you more – he will ☺ Relax in the random garden, share a table with new friends, borrow one of the hats if it gets too bright and enjoy the ozone.
40 min walk or No1 bus

+ the food/ choice of local fish & tender steaks, wine list

- gets busy, can’t actually see the sea

                         Tel 01305 788867 – best to book   www.crabhousecafe.co.uk

PH  Italian oysters with pesto and parmesan and fresh flour dusted dabs. To drink, the Picpoul de Pinet.

Crispy Squid Balls

The Garden

     

For locals and regular visitors to Portland Marina there are some good choices for travelling further west, either by boat or bike or a mix of hike and bus taking in the South Coast Path. The car is also an option!

Why would I do that I hear you say - to visit Hive Beach Café, of course, up near Bridport, or dare I say…Broadchurch? And yes, David Tennant has been spotted recently! This wonderful café on National Trust land has grown like Topsy and is right on the beach. Serving excellent home cooked food, again, based on the bounty of the county. Mostly fish but also great cakes and very good coffee, it’s always busy
They even have their own cookbook and a deal for silver surfers on Wednesdays.  
17.3 miles – 5hrs 45

 + very good on twitter, useful info @HiveBeachCafe                            

 -  it gets very busy, the locals in the queue begged me not to write about HB

                       Tel 01308 897070                            www.hivebeachcafe.co.uk 


PH – the monkfish or langoustines, a swim and very good coffee, which they source themselves.

The View from Hive Beach Cafe

Hive Beach Cafe

Langoustine                              

Tempura Hake @HiveBeachCafe

My other favourite stop off is Downhouse Farm, walk up from West Bay if you’ve left the boat there, or come over the hill from Abbotsbury (9 mile walk – bus home) or, indeed, come by car and enjoy the stunning drive. This family of coastal, organic farmers are joyful; tending their sea swept herds of Aberdeen Angus, Badger Faced Welsh Mountain sheep and free range pork from their Large White x Duroc pigs – buy and take home.

                   Tel 01308 421232                                    www.downhousefarm.org

PH – it has to be the cream tea after hiking over from Abbotsbury 9m (from Portland 7 hrs – 21m) you’ve earned it!

Useful Travel Information:

Bus X53 runs from Weymouth to Exeter and is useful for South Coast Path walkers

Bus 1(Weymouth to Southwell) & 501 (Weymouth to Portland Bill) Portland.

Weyline Taxis 01305 777777

www.southwestcoastpath.com/jcbus

www.travelinesw.com 0871 200 22 33

www.marshwoodtrails.co.uk – electric bikes, lots of fun & good for hills - 07796 135256

www.jurassictrailscyclehire.co.uk 01305 836428

(Originally written for All at Sea)