Showing posts with label walk. Show all posts
Showing posts with label walk. Show all posts

Saturday, 1 November 2014

No 5. Falmouth

The World's third largest natural, deep water harbour and a healthy commercial port to boot. 
Deep into Cornwall, with wonderful creeks that are a pirates dream, beautiful beaches, tropical gardens and more eating choices than you can shake a fish slice at! 

I visited during the annual Oyster Fest, which opens the season in October, and draws a wide crowd to enjoy the food and music. This year’s top performers were the Fisherman’s Friends and the Oggy Men. Date for 2015 15-18th October – you heard it here first, book your berth!

Map of Falmouth Estuary 
Now this is not a great area for cycling to my preferred haunts, as the roads are narrow and twisty, so this month I'll simply list top spots and one safe walk.

In Falmouth itself there is a huge choice of places to eat, with fun cafes competing with more serious restaurants, most enjoying glorious views over the Fal Estuary or out to sea. Quality is high and local produce well respected. A joyful town with friendly inhabitants and home to Rustler Yachts, of course, surely producing some of the prettiest boats around?

The Review.
Rick Stein's Fish offers some great light bites, ideal if you like to try lots of different flavours and get bored with raw oysters. The other advantage of this place is that you can usually get in - they don't take reservations - and I haven't been turned away, whereas I will have to wait to try The Wheelhouse which was highly recommended, so try it if you can.

Most popular plate is definitely the fish & chips but through the Oyster Fest they add some groovy 'specials' to the menu and I had to try them –
The Oysters

The Menu
First off - tempura oysters with sesame seeds & lime, light as a puff of air with a crisp soft chew. Still room so next I tried the trio of Parmesan cream oysters, interesting, but not as good as the tempura. Washed down with good house Muscadet 

Hops choice - all the starters, salt n pepper prawns and chilli squid. Tel 01841 532700


Top Veggie choice - The Wildebeest, 13 Arwenack St, 01326 210602

Wildbeest Interior

Top for Seafood/Crab - The Wheel House, 01326 318050 - need to book, they run 2 sittings. Situated down Upton Slip - these guys are so busy they don’t even have a sign! 

The Wheel House

Hottest Coffee - Espressini, there’s a new tiny branch opposite the Stable but the main hub is on central Killigrew St. Serious about coffee choice and a great little menu.

The Coffee

The Menu

Best Bread - Baker Tom - this artisan baker has 4 bases now, and you could do worse than coming into town from the boat and loading up with fresh breads, a few saffron buns, some Cornish cream and cheese from the deli and head off for a picnic. 01326 318221

Baker Tom's Bread

Fastest Fish & Chips - Harbour Lights – on the quay near the Stable – eat in or take out.



Beyond Falmouth

Top pub - Pandora Inn - Wonderful setting and really good daily specials. Ruby Red Aged beef from the Lizard caught my eye as I was all fished out, but my neighbours always come for the mussels as they say the cream and butter sauce is first class.
Their most popular plate is the local catch of the day Fish & Ships or the Pandora Fish Pie
Like their ‘Wine of month’ option too.
Tel 01326 372678


Moules

The View
Maybe coming by boat would be safer then those narrow roads - or boat to Mylor Bridge & then walk. Parking is tight on sunny days and weekends.


Best afternoon tea?

Penryn - Miss Pepperpot’s cafe at Jubilee Wharf as I had heard great things about their homemade cakes. They embrace local and epicycle, see crockery. Dabara Bakers (Truro) and Origin Coffee from Helston.

PH - Peach and almond cake with a pot of Clipper tea (£4.50) a crunchy sugar topped moist cake, with big chunks of peach along with juice almonds with a decent bite - delicious snack for walker!

Best cakes/ bohemian experience -  Potager, Constantine

Again, this is no calm bike ride and I think you would be better walking over the fields and then catching the bus home or catch a lift with any friendly folks in Falmouth heading towards Constantine, to stock up on eccentric booze in the Post Office.

Potager Glass House is just before Constantine and is well worth a visit - a dream of a working garden rediscovered, that has recently opened up it's hand built (by Mark, local boat builder) greenhouse on Fridays and weekends. Wonderful atmosphere. Very happy families either playing ping pong in another glasshouse or eating cakes and drinking tea, or resting after a session in the garden – Friday helpers get rewarded with a cream tea! Interesting Breton baker Awen makes all the breads from sour dough base, with a very interesting long stir and overnight prove method. Come and spend some time here, open from breakfast till tea time. 01326 341258

PH – coffee, syrup cake


Inside Glass House

Coffee Syrup Cake

The hike – Flushing to Mylor Bridge - 5 miles there and back

This is a beautiful walk following the coastal path from Flushing (see link below to start from Falmouth) to Mylor Bridge with a welcome café ‘Castaways’ at the end.
01326 377710
http://falmouthbids.s3.amazonaws.com/1282923256_952.pdf





Falmouth Tourism www.falmouth.co.uk with info on the all important ferry services
Maritime Museum www.nmmc.co.uk
Electric bikes at Penryn – Batribike.com – Peter Williams 07966 425774

And Potager sells some lovely (tiny) walking maps that take you on 2-7 mile walks from the gardens. 















Wednesday, 1 October 2014

No 4. Poole Quay

Poole Harbour is second only to Sydney as the World's biggest natural harbour and there is something for everyone here, with a choice of idyllic moorings to the west of the Harbour or to go into one of the many well serviced marinas. We, as ever, are looking for the slightly unusual place that is a hike or bike away from our mooring:

From the Quay itself:
Party Animal option - moor up on Quay wall if you dare, around £19 for a 25 footer or go into the quieter, more secure Poole Quay Boat Haven, just along the quay for £28.


Tel: 01202 649488

Now you are in the thick of things and can chose between the remarkable institution that is the Guildhall Tavern, run by chef owners Frederick & Severine, serving fantastic French food, from grilled sardine fillets to proper snails and beef Bourguignon, all delicious, but a bit of a special place to go, so my top tip is to go for lunch if you can, when 2 courses from the table d'hôte will cost £15, which is excellent value for food of this consistent standard.
They also do Seafood Platters to go, chose exactly what you want and pay accordingly. 


8 min walk to 15 Market Street, quiet road behind the Quay

Tel: 01202 671717                Website: www.guildhalltavern.co.uk

PH choice:     Homemade crispy tartlet with scallops & crab in a dill cream sauce, followed by Chicken oysters, with shallots, carrots & courgettes in a cheddar & cream reduction - then a nap.




The Stable
If you have the teens on board or there's a gang of you why not head to the Stable? Everyone's favourite pizza/pie and cider joint. This maybe a chain, but it's a very fine one and local! 
Starting in Bridport some 8 years ago, concentrating on using the best local produce they are growing in a very healthy way. They have recently opened on Fistral Beach and in Falmouth and tick all the boxes for me. Great choice of ever changing West Country ciders and live music every Sunday afternoon in Pool. They even do gluten free pizza bases, and if you order a 'Billy the kid' without cheese it's vegan friendly!


 3 min walk as right on Quay
Poole Quay Stable: 01202 661471              Visit the website for more info & locations www.stablepizza.com

PH choice:   The 'Durdle Door' pizza - herb roasted potato, Dorset Blue Vinney, roast Spanish onions, spinach...... and a pint of Dorset Nectar Wildcat






The hike - Poole Quay to Parkstone Bay 3 miles
Now for the hike - not very strenuous this time. Set off east along the water front following a clearly marked path, shared with cyclists, that takes you along the waters edge around Parkstone Bay, it is part of Sustrans Route 25. 


Map of Poole Quay
When you cross the large play area at Whitecliff you will see a small marina ahead with many motor boats ashore - this is Parkstone Bay. Your destination is on the right, the low slung shed that is Deep South Cafe. 

The review
This is a very popular meeting place for locals and those about to zip round the bay in their sports boats. It's been pretty full whenever I've visited and the team are friendly and efficient. Owned by Stéphane Rondos who has brought some of his Belgian favourites to the table
But it's the small shed opposite that beckons me, with aromas of fresh bread and baked plums wafting through the chain curtain - they have their own micro bakery on site - heaven!
Alena Dostalova learnt to throw dough around when she helped her grandfather bake in the Czech Republic, but extended her skills in the UK as patisserie chef, she now bakes all the cakes, pastries, breads and deserts for the cafe, fresh from the oven.

Now, to lunch, I had been told that moules was probably the most popular dish, so was glad to see they came as a starter, at £4.50, great value and stops you getting bored with what I'm told is our best farmed protein with the smallest carbon footprint! They were good, and served with Alena’s breads of course. Followed by sea bass on ratatouille and my pal had the Belgian meatballs, with a sweet onion gravy. The sea bass was fine, with a good crispy skin, but the meatballs a tad disappointing in taste, though the skin-on-chips were very good. 
There were a lot of happy faces around us and I liked the mix, families, sports boat pre doughnut riders and quieter couples. It was busy but the food came quickly and there is plenty of room for people to spill out beyond the decks.


40 min walk one way, about 3 miles. Return walk - try and go through Poole Park and admire the fun on the lake from dinghy sailing to model swan pedallos, a wonderfully traditional boating park



  • the setting, bakery and relaxed attitude  - a limited menu


Website: www.parkstonebay.com      Cafe Tel: 01202 733155


PH choice:    The moules or haddock fish cakes, all fresh baked stuff and the coffee's good. 


Exterior of the Deep South Cafe

Deep South Cafe


Baker Alena Dostalova
The bike - a choice of 3 piggy routes
Now you have a choice of direction here, as bike hire is scant around the Poole area, with the Academy down at Sandbanks being closest, but quite a hike from the Quay. 
If you rented here and crossed over on the chain ferry to Studland the whole of the Purbeck opens up to you, but for a lunch stop try heading up to Wareham on cycle route 2, at least half of it off road, and the quaint town, a favourite of many smaller vessels, or bilge keelers has a great choice of pubs, cafes and restaurants.


10 miles from Sandbanks ferry.

PH choice:  The Ginger Pig, deli come farm shop, try the quiche, and take some sausages back to the boat.


If you have bikes on board you can nip onto Route 25 which takes you north on smooth tarmac paths out of Poole and then wiggles out to the west, avoiding the main road into Wimborne Minster, here you will find Pig 2 of the Tickled variety - very popular restaurant with a loyal following that have a great outside catering van that I have seen at several food shows and particularly like their hanghi lamb - worth travelling to try!
The Tickled Pig at Wimborne Minster.


8 miles via Route 25

The Tickled Pig at Wimbourne Minster


And Pig No 3 is the newly opened Pig on the Beach, at Studland.
As this is right on the beach you have all three choices of how to get to this one, by boat, moor off in Shell Bay and dinghy ashore, or by foot or bike.

3.5 miles 30 minutes by bike, or walk the coast path and it will take you about an hour.

Tel: 01590 622354

Enjoy!

Contacts:
Guildhall Tavern, Poole Quay         01202 671717
The Stable, Poole Quay                 01202 661471
South Deep Café, Parkstone Bay         01202 733155
Salt Pig – Wareham                 01929 550673
The Pig on the Beach, Studland         01590 622354
The Tickled Pig, Wimborne Minster        01202 886778
Bike hire: thewatersportsacademy.com 01202 708283 hire = £20 per day
Cycle routes www.sustrans.org.uk

www.pooltourism.com