No 4. Poole Quay

Poole Harbour is second only to Sydney as the World's biggest natural harbour and there is something for everyone here, with a choice of idyllic moorings to the west of the Harbour or to go into one of the many well serviced marinas. We, as ever, are looking for the slightly unusual place that is a hike or bike away from our mooring:

From the Quay itself:
Party Animal option - moor up on Quay wall if you dare, around £19 for a 25 footer or go into the quieter, more secure Poole Quay Boat Haven, just along the quay for £28.

Tel: 01202 649488

Now you are in the thick of things and can chose between the remarkable institution that is the Guildhall Tavern, run by chef owners Frederick & Severine, serving fantastic French food, from grilled sardine fillets to proper snails and beef Bourguignon, all delicious, but a bit of a special place to go, so my top tip is to go for lunch if you can, when 2 courses from the table d'hôte will cost £15, which is excellent value for food of this consistent standard.
They also do Seafood Platters to go, chose exactly what you want and pay accordingly. 

8 min walk to 15 Market Street, quiet road behind the Quay

Tel: 01202 671717                Website: www.guildhalltavern.co.uk

PH choice:     Homemade crispy tartlet with scallops & crab in a dill cream sauce, followed by Chicken oysters, with shallots, carrots & courgettes in a cheddar & cream reduction - then a nap.

The Stable
If you have the teens on board or there's a gang of you why not head to the Stable? Everyone's favourite pizza/pie and cider joint. This maybe a chain, but it's a very fine one and local! 
Starting in Bridport some 8 years ago, concentrating on using the best local produce they are growing in a very healthy way. They have recently opened on Fistral Beach and in Falmouth and tick all the boxes for me. Great choice of ever changing West Country ciders and live music every Sunday afternoon in Pool. They even do gluten free pizza bases, and if you order a 'Billy the kid' without cheese it's vegan friendly!

 3 min walk as right on Quay

Poole Quay Stable: 01202 661471              Visit the website for more info & locations www.stablepizza.com

PH choice:   The 'Durdle Door' pizza - herb roasted potato, Dorset Blue Vinney, roast Spanish onions, spinach...... and a pint of Dorset Nectar Wildcat

The hike - Poole Quay to Parkstone Bay 3 miles
Now for the hike - not very strenuous this time. Set off east along the water front following a clearly marked path, shared with cyclists, that takes you along the waters edge around Parkstone Bay, it is part of Sustrans Route 25. 

Map of Poole Quay

When you cross the large play area at Whitecliff you will see a small marina ahead with many motor boats ashore - this is Parkstone Bay. Your destination is on the right, the low slung shed that is Deep South Cafe. 

The review
This is a very popular meeting place for locals and those about to zip round the bay in their sports boats. It's been pretty full whenever I've visited and the team are friendly and efficient. Owned by Stéphane Rondos who has brought some of his Belgian favourites to the table
But it's the small shed opposite that beckons me, with aromas of fresh bread and baked plums wafting through the chain curtain - they have their own micro bakery on site - heaven!
Alena Dostalova learnt to throw dough around when she helped her grandfather bake in the Czech Republic, but extended her skills in the UK as patisserie chef, she now bakes all the cakes, pastries, breads and deserts for the cafe, fresh from the oven.

Now, to lunch, I had been told that moules was probably the most popular dish, so was glad to see they came as a starter, at £4.50, great value and stops you getting bored with what I'm told is our best farmed protein with the smallest carbon footprint! They were good, and served with Alena’s breads of course. Followed by sea bass on ratatouille and my pal had the Belgian meatballs, with a sweet onion gravy. The sea bass was fine, with a good crispy skin, but the meatballs a tad disappointing in taste, though the skin-on-chips were very good. 
There were a lot of happy faces around us and I liked the mix, families, sports boat pre doughnut riders and quieter couples. It was busy but the food came quickly and there is plenty of room for people to spill out beyond the decks.

40 min walk one way, about 3 miles. Return walk - try and go through Poole Park and admire the fun on the lake from dinghy sailing to model swan pedallos, a wonderfully traditional boating park

• the setting, bakery and relaxed attitude  - a limited menu

Website: www.parkstonebay.com      Cafe Tel: 01202 733155

PH choice:    The moules or haddock fish cakes, all fresh baked stuff and the coffee's good. 

Exterior of the Deep South Cafe

Deep South Cafe

Baker Alena Dostalova

The bike - a choice of 3 piggy routes
Now you have a choice of direction here, as bike hire is scant around the Poole area, with the Academy down at Sandbanks being closest, but quite a hike from the Quay. 
If you rented here and crossed over on the chain ferry to Studland the whole of the Purbeck opens up to you, but for a lunch stop try heading up to Wareham on cycle route 2, at least half of it off road, and the quaint town, a favourite of many smaller vessels, or bilge keelers has a great choice of pubs, cafes and restaurants.

10 miles from Sandbanks ferry.

PH choice:  The Ginger Pig, deli come farm shop, try the quiche, and take some sausages back to the boat.

If you have bikes on board you can nip onto Route 25 which takes you north on smooth tarmac paths out of Poole and then wiggles out to the west, avoiding the main road into Wimborne Minster, here you will find Pig 2 of the Tickled variety - very popular restaurant with a loyal following that have a great outside catering van that I have seen at several food shows and particularly like their hanghi lamb - worth travelling to try!
The Tickled Pig at Wimborne Minster.

8 miles via Route 25

The Tickled Pig at Wimbourne Minster

And Pig No 3 is the newly opened Pig on the Beach, at Studland.
As this is right on the beach you have all three choices of how to get to this one, by boat, moor off in Shell Bay and dinghy ashore, or by foot or bike.

3.5 miles 30 minutes by bike, or walk the coast path and it will take you about an hour.

Tel: 01590 622354

Enjoy!

Contacts:
Guildhall Tavern, Poole Quay         01202 671717
The Stable, Poole Quay                 01202 661471
South Deep Café, Parkstone Bay         01202 733155
Salt Pig – Wareham                 01929 550673
The Pig on the Beach, Studland         01590 622354
The Tickled Pig, Wimborne Minster        01202 886778
Bike hire: thewatersportsacademy.com 01202 708283 hire = £20 per day
Cycle routes www.sustrans.org.uk

www.pooltourism.com

PSP Southampton International Boat Show 2014

Petit Dejeuner anyone?

Top tip for those going to the PSP Southampton International Boat Show, starting Friday 12th Sept.

If you get to the show early and fancy petit dejeuner to gird the loins before the show, why not wander up the main road from the traffic lights opposite Margaritas until you see Victor Hugo on your right, opposite La Lupa, where you will enjoy a genuine French breakfast – and they are open from 6 am!

Breakfast Menu

Interior

And in the evening leave the show at Gate F - next to the Pier/Kutis and walk towards the Old Walls where you will  see this white Georgian gem set within the stone walls, dangling it's golden piggy sign.

They are running a casual barbeque outside for weary show goers from 5 - 8pm each day, a perfect pick me up after a long day looking at or selling boats....

The PIG’s Burger
Owtons Finest Handmade Steak Burgers 6oz
~ £5.00

The PIG’s Hot Dog
Owtons Finest Pork & Herb Sausages
~ £4.50

Grilled Flat Mushroom Bap
~ £3.50

Nice to see the team getting everything ready for the show ..... or perhaps Bestival?

No 3. The Hamble

I really like the Hamble. Having spent many happy years at Port Hamble before progressing to a river mooring, I like the jostle of the place and the fact that it has some very loyal residents that wouldn't live anywhere else. Nope, not for all the rice in China - as the grainy bit in Hamble-le-Rice actually means small hill, not the epicentre for pudding or risotto.

So here we are, on a gloriously hot day, so have bought more ice from the marina to keep the cold box solid, before heading up the cobbled high street for the best coffee in town.

Bonne Bouche Deli has been here for many years, but just 8 weeks ago Georgie took over, and extended the place so you can eat, drink coffee, read the papers, inside as well as out. She serves Monmouth coffee for those who care about such things and the cheerful team will prepare fresh sandwiches to eat in or take on a picnic

Tasting Notes

+ Monmouth coffee and sitting out on the terrace, in the shade, watching the World go by

Tel 023 8045 5771

Bonne Bouche Delicatessen & Coffee House

Interior of Bonne Bouche

Opposite Bonne Bouche is The Victory. Now the Hamble has it's fair share of pubs per square footage and when I asked an old mate who has lived here all his life, what his top choices would be for eating out he said 'River Rat poshest, Dolce Vita best atmosphere and the Bugle best pub food'.But I know a team who do the Hamble River series who always go to the Victory - simply for its home-made pie. It's always on the menu, but on Wednesdays you get a choice of pie, mash, peas and gravy for just £7.50, and I think the steak & ale is probably my favourite.

The Victory

Now it's getting hotter and I want to catch the ferry to get over to Warsash before I turn into a puddle. The pink ferry runs every day of the year except Christmas Day. It costs £1 each way for adults, £1.75 if you take your bike and 75 p for kids.

The Pink Ferry

So walking past the Royal Southern YC you follow the signs for the ferry and in a jiffy you are crossing the quarter mile distance that saves you a 5 mile round river walk - that we're going to do. It's shady on the other side!

The path along the river bank on the eastern shore of the Hamble is less built up than the Western side and as you make your way up towards Bursledon the views of of busy river and wildlife are joyful. As I approach Universal Marina though I see an interesting silver boathouse amid the trees and realise that I’m fast approaching the place that everyone is talking about. Come on in and let’s see what Bistro 8 is all about.

Entrance to Bistro 8

Amazing. Urban silver grey exterier, with a woven jacket on the land entrance, but boat shed grey from the river path entrance. A leafy terrace, space for the kids, kennels for the dogs, very cool. It is a tad unexpected to see a suited, professional greet you at the door, but the staff are all very pleasant, and if the drinks weren’t arriving quite as quickly as the heat of the day asked, they were just getting to grips with a brand new menu.

Leafy Terrace

The menu is simple, the wine list good, packed with all your favourites. Quite a few people were just drinking coffee, reading the papers, meeting friends. The gas fired pizza oven has been built for speed but I’m told the pizzas taste great, and top dish of the day was the clams, chorizo, samphir, herbs & wine, cooked in the clay oven.

Refreshing glass of Rose 

Char-grilled peaches with amaretto sweet lime marscapone

The lightly dusted squid with homemade tartare was light as popcorn and perfect for lunch, if you wanted to try out the char-grilled peaches with amaretto sweet lime marscapone – perfect!
I had a glass of the Rimauresq Cote de Provence as it was 28 degrees and rosé weather and the three items set me back £21, so you won’t be coming here every day for lunch, but what a perfect oasis of calm amongst the heat and bustle of the Hamble on a busy work day. A great place for an early evening cocktail – I spied both my best rum and favourite gin behind the bar – will have to come back with Paul Antrobus for a tasting! PS Do visit the loos. 

Tasting Notes

 + location, style, food and the loosiles, approx 40 mins

 Walk – from the ferry in Warsash just under 2 miles, approx 40 mins

Tel: 01489 854259

Now, back to the path, if you carry on up and cross Bursledon Bridge you come back over the river on the side of the Jolly Sailor, 1.4 miles, 28 mins. After refreshments here you carry on back towards Hamble, following the footpath signs, about 3.2 miles and just over an hours walking.

You will have earnt a good cup of tea and slice of cake by now, then time to relax on the boat before considering whether to cook, or visit Dolce Vita or the River Rat tonight?


Useful Information:

Dolce Vita – an established Hamble favourite, reliable, fun Italian – 023 8045 4567
River Rat – wine shop by day, restaurant by night, lunch just Frid & Sats – 023 8045 7801
(have yet to eat here so will report back – let me know what you think penny@thephysicalpr.co.uk)
Banana Wharf – I know it’s a chain, but has a great position and is open from 8.30 at weekends for breakfast. If you can park it’s a great place to meet friends for a drink. 023 8045 6622
The Bugle – best pub food in Hamble according to locals. Nice position 023 8045 3000
The Victory – best pie in town, steak & ale or chicken & leak the favourites 023 8045 3105 
Hamble/Warsash Ferry 023 8045 4512

www.hamble.net/WP/general/home-page

Going to France?

Have just returned from La Rochelle helping Oceans of Hope - a wonderful Danish project spreading awareness for Multiple Sclerosis as the boat is crewed by up to seven people with MS. They were a joyful bunch, showing how sailing - or indeed, just doing something active that we take for granted - brings hope, joy and respite and that meeting other people who openly admit to having the illness freed up a lot of misconceptions.

For more info have a look at sailingsclerosis.com, there are plenty of opportunities to do a leg of this 17 month voyage, if you have MS and fit the criteria, apply soon, you will not regret it, I assure you. The boat is heading for Lisbon now before crossing to Boston and then taking the Panama Canal option en route to the Galapagos.

Oceans of Hope in La Rochelle

Now to food. 

Here is just a brief recommendation as all visitors to La Rochelle will have their favourite bar & boulangerie I'm sure!

But in the old town, along the quay by the towers there are some pop-up restaurants. The P'tit Bateau is a beautifully made stall - see photo - serving the freshest grilled sardines 5.95€, moules papillotes 6.95€ and choice of oysters, grilled langoustines 9€ and decent Muscadet at 8€ half bottle - fantastic!   

And my favourite restaurant is La Marée, on the corner near the Aquarium, just chill and have a glass of rosé pamplemousse whilst deciding what to eat.

Le P’tit Bateau pop up in La Rochelle

Moules en papillotes

Grilled Sardines

Bon appetite all those travelling to France this summer.

No 2. Lymington

This issue we moor up in Lymington - taking a buoy off the busy Town Quay to make the most of the Saturday market, shops and pubs. This lovely Georgian town made it's money from salt panning back in the day and press ganging at night - so watch out!

This month we look at a couple of options, one for the gourmand and one for a fun family Spanish lunch, plus the optional hike or bike routes to take you somewhere off the watery track.

Lymington Quay

So we start by stumbling across Fine Food 4 Sail, tucked into a corner of Berthon's boatyard, opposite Force Four chandlery. It’s a deli-come-wine bar specialising in ‘hot rocks’ where you can cook your own local steak, lamb, scallops and prawns on volcanic stone. The trick here is that the chef sources the finest ingredients (hence the name) so the steak is melt in the mouth and you can chose to have 3 scallops, 2 prawns and a lamb cutlet, if that is what you hanker for. The owner, Paul Bayntun, an ex ad man, makes a genial host and can often be found looking after the rosé or showing photos of fish recently caught on the huge Mac on the bar.

The Deli at Fine Food 4Sail

Interior of Fine Food 4Sail

They are open from 9 am serving breakfasts and can cater for big groups in a private room. Many locals and those working in the yard use this as their office, there is wifi, good coffee and a lovely ambience created by the New England style décor – relaxed.

In good weather they will throw a barbeque round the back, and you need to remember that this is the way in after 9pm, to keep the neighbours happy.

Tasting notes

Central Lymington – closest to the Quay & Berthon.

(15 mins walk from Yacht Haven)

+ good choice of food/ quality ingredients & good wine list

Tel: 01590 677 705               Opening Hours: 09.00 - 23.00hrs

Most popular plate – courgette & feta fritters, tempura battered lemon sole & hot rocks

If you’ve got all the kids aboard and they love churros - who doesn't – why not wander up the High Street to La Vina, a fun Spanish restaurant that does three tapas for £9.95.

Tel: 01590 674 010             Opening Hours: 09.00 – last orders 21.30 every day of week

Most popular plate tapas – we love the chipirones and the churros to share for £6.25. Try the Sangria of the day.

Bon appetite 

Churros

The hike - out to Keyhaven via the coastal path - lunch at The Gun Inn, or take a picnic. 

Tel: 01590 642391

Distance: 3+ miles.           Time: 1hr 30                Info: www.lymington/org/solentway3.html

The Gun Inn

The Quay at Keyhaven 

The bike – take the train to Brockenhurst and hire a bike from Cycle Experience just by the station. You then have two options, cycle through the woods, some 4 miles to the pretty hamlet of Bank, where the Oak Inn will serve you a very good lunch.

         Distance 4 miles each way - nearly all off road

Tel: 023 8028 2350                Opens at 12:00 (children under 10 are not allowed in the pub after 18:00)

Most popular plate: catch of the day, or the roast peppers stuffed with feta

Or go upmarket and either cycle (or better still walk - and save your bucks for lunch) the mile distance to The Pig, Brockenhurst. A wonderful country house hotel with mouth watering kitchen garden and spa - a proper treat if you are celebrating. The Pig is little sister, never runt of the litter, to Limewood House in Lyndhurst, bringing the likes of Clint Eastwood & Jamie Cullom to Lyndhurst High Street, to the delight of the locals. You can have a simple lunch on the terrace and enjoy their flatbreads from the wood fired oven or go the whole hog and eat in their delightful greenhouse styled conservatory.

Tel: 01590 622354                                Open all day:  flatbreads 12:00-17:00hrs  

Most popular plate: the flat breads on the terrace. Quail egg & home cured hams

The Pig

The wood-fired Pizza Oven

The Dining Room

Feedback request

I would like to hear your views on the Haven, the bistro with perfect views over the Solent to Yarmouth, as I do not have room to review this time but would like to in the future - so let me know your thoughts please as there are many rumblings locally since the re-fit and the involvement of the endearing Chris Evans.

Please send to penny@thephysicalpr.co.uk , thank you.

Useful Links:

www.nationalrail.co.uk - Lymington Pier to Brockenhurst leaves .29 & .59 past hour £3.30

www.cyclex.co.uk        - CycleExperience         01590 624204 hire from £16 for the day

www.lymington.org      - great site for local info/ walks etc